Funny how the capital of these here United States is not
actually in the States, per say … Well, it is, and it isn’t, depending how you
look at it. Nor is it governed like any
other state, but rather by the Congress under exclusive jurisdiction (who can theoretically
revoke the District’s elected government if so desired). And to add to that, the District has no
voting representation in Congress (yes, that is the political body that has
power over it). Interesting, no? Yet, this is where it all takes place. The political, governing, executive,
judicial, special interest influence, “you name it” “heart” of these US of
A. For most of us, though, it’s just a
wonderful place to visit, full of history, [free] museums, and culture. A perfect vacation destination for a few
days…
If you time it right (usually around the end of March or
first week in April) the whole scenery around the Tidal Basin is accentuated by
flowering trees covered in dark magenta, cerise (yes that is a color) and pink. I’m talking about the cherry blossoms, a
phenomenal visual display that we had the fortune of witnessing first hand
during our trip here about 7 years ago.
This time around, not so lucky, since the mild winter and early spring
had the majestic flowers explode out of their buds a couple weeks earlier… But
if you’re trying to get there during full bloom, or just browse through some
nice pictures of what that looks like, here’s a web site that might entice you
to book your trip so it does sync up: http://cherryblossomwatch.com/
. Just know that there will be thousands
of tourists and locals hoping to enjoy it as well, so it will be crowded!
There’s tons of “stuff” on the net about visiting DC. And yes, it’s very touristy. And tourist-friendly as well. I’ll let you do all that planning on your
own… but here’s a few notes from personal experience:
Lodging. Last time we
stayed across the Potomac near the Pentagon.
Easy ride in and out with the Metro.
This time, the hotel was 5 blocks north of the White House. I definitely recommend the latter (although
there was quite a lot of walking back and forth). Air BnB is always a nice alternative, and
prices are very reasonable in and around DC.
Transportation. The
Metro is very clean, easy to get around, but has gotten more expensive
recently. For the 5 of us, Uber was
actually more convenient and almost the same price (although we used UberXL
quite a bit). Frankly, Uber beats the
heck out of renting a car also … And as I said, with a few exceptions, all of
the touristy area is very walkable.
Monuments and outdoor “stuff”. I suggest starting the day at Arlington. What an experience! It strikes the right chords along the lines of
patriotism, duty, honor, and all things tied to national pride. But it’s also an equally strong reminder of
how many people lost their lives in senseless wars. Don’t even get me started…
The first (obligatory) stop is the JFK gravesite. He’s actually one of the only 2 presidents
buried here (Taft is the other one).
Nothing overly extravagant. An
“eternal” flame. A few of his quotes
etched in marble. A nice view of the
“Mall” from up there. And everyone
paying respects in silence… For those of us that were not around or too young,
it does not have the effect as it has on those that remember where they were /
what they were doing the day he was shot…
Up the hill, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is easily the
“focal point” of the Arlington experience.
Very somber. Highly ceremonial. Extremely quiet. With only the “clicks” of the boots turning
once every 21 steps. And the slap of the
palm on the rifle as it hits the shoulder.
But unlike many of the other similar “guards” this one is manly about
honor. Duty. And Servitude. It’s actually one of the highest military
(Army) honors to serve as a Sentinel in the Guard. I hear that less than 20% of the applicants
are accepted (very stringent criteria) and even fewer complete the actual
training. It has to do with more than
physical capabilities. It’s mainly
around morals, the psychology of a soldier, and honor. Did I mention that already? I think I did…
The actual changing of the guard ceremony speaks to all that
training. The synchronization is
absolutely stunning! At some point all 3
are perfectly in step. Simply
amazing. Grab a spot up on the steps and
enjoy the ceremony!
On the way out (if you took the trolley tour) hop off at the Marine Corps (Iwo Jima) memorial. Worth a quick detour, as this statue is pretty impressive.
From here, cut across the cemetery and walk across the
Arlington Bridge for the first major attraction on the Mall: the Lincoln
Memorial.
“Honest Abe” is imposing in his armchair, shaded under the imposing columns, presiding over the “Mall” below, with an air of content, calm superiority, somewhat peaceful, yet lost in thought [probably] over the future of this country. I can’t help by wondering how disappointed he would be today…
“Honest Abe” is imposing in his armchair, shaded under the imposing columns, presiding over the “Mall” below, with an air of content, calm superiority, somewhat peaceful, yet lost in thought [probably] over the future of this country. I can’t help by wondering how disappointed he would be today…
But let’s not go down that slippery slope. It’s a vacation
trip after all…
As you come down the steps from Lincoln, on either side of
the Reflecting pool there are Veterans’ Memorials for both the Vietnam War
(left) and Korean War (right). At the
end of the pool: the WWII Memorial. For
a lot of people, these “hit home” in one form or another. A father, grandfather, brother, sister, or
friend-of-a-friend have perished in one of these wars. The lucky ones made it back in [more or less]
one piece. And as much as the military
and political figureheads throughout history have found justification for them,
I’m sure a lot of people are still asking “why?”… And despite enough arguments
to the contrary, the pacifist in me will never get it.
Aaaanyway…
Just up from the WWII Memorial, the Washington Monument
[ahem, obelisk] strikes out of the ground as if shooting for the stars … one of
those “hidden in plain sight” Freemason or Illuminati structures surrounding
many conspiracy theories. Is there any
truth to them? Since GW was a Master
Mason himself, as well as Robert Mills (the architect) then I’m not surprised. But I’m not here to fan the flames around
those theories…
The structure itself is imposing. At 555 ft high (169 meters) it’s both the
world’s tallest stone structure and the tallest obelisk (take that, ancient
Egypt!). In 1888 (when completed) it was
actually the tallest structure in the world (it didn’t last, as one year later,
the Eiffel Tower took that claim).
Visitors can access the top (about a 70 seconds ride
apparently) for panoramic views of the Mall, White House, Capitol, and overall
vicinity. The tickets are free (as with
all Smithsonian institutions) but reserving ahead online takes very early
planning (2-3 months), so the alternative is to line up around 7-7:30 am to be
one of the first in line when the ticket office opens at 8. So much for “sleeping in” while on vacation…
To complete the “monuments” tour, a loop around the Tidal Basin is in order. Jefferson’s is the furthest out, then FDR’s, and the most recent addition – MLK’s. Each very different, each celebrating the memory of people that have significantly shaped what/where we are today as a nation.
Next, off to some Museums.
Geez, where do we start?
There are so many to choose from, it’s overwhelming. The Smithsonian has about 19 museums and galleries in DC. And since they’re all “free” (well, not entirely, since they’re all financed by your tax dollars or private donations) one feels almost obligated to try and visit as many as possible. Which typically means that you’d “fly” through most of them, without giving them the time they really deserve… I know we did just that.
Quick educational interlude: the Smithsonian museums gets around
28 million visitors a year (seems like half of them were there during this spring
break). Their budget is about $840
millions, 60% of which is federal funds (the “free” to you and I part); the
rest, private money and revenue from operations (as much as it’s free to get
in, the food prices inside are a bit steep; and there aren’t any other options
along the Mall, either. Food trucks, would be a nice touch, but the antiquated
lottery system that assigns the 74 available vending spots around the area
ensure that there’s nothing but hot dogs and junk food available. I hear they’re about the revamp it all, which
makes a lot of sense...
More on the culinary scene a bit later. For now, a few notes on the museums.
As you face the Capitol, the first one on the right is the
Smithsonian Castle. Impressive building,
housing their administrative offices and the main information desk. A couple small pavilions in the back (art
galleries) and a beautiful garden that justifies a quick strolling detour. Next door – Hirshhorn – the contemporary art
museum. Likely the one most people skip,
with so many other [better] choices available…
Further down, the Air and Space Museum; easily one of the busiest, interesting, and appealing to all ages. Anything from the Wright Brothers, to space exploration, war aircraft, and so on. Definitely stop in for a few hours.
Next, the American Indian museum. Interesting, in that it covers all of the Americas, not just the North. Lots on the Inca and Aztec civilizations. Also a lot of materials on how “the white man” used [for the most part] peaceful methods to assimilate and integrate the indigenous population, that a lot of the occupation was based on bilateral treaties, and diplomacy. Yet one wonders how diplomatic something called “the Indian Removal Act” can be? History also teaches us of multiple encounters where A LOT of blood was shed in the process (”genocide-like” according to many); Trail of Tears, Sand Creek Massacre, Wounded Knee Massacre are just a few that come to mind. But again, it seems there wasn’t much in the museum on that side of the coin. Instead, it looked to me like a very over-the-top effort to paint a very humane picture of how the natives were slowly removed, something the likes of Sitting Bull, Geronimo, or Tecumesh would probably not entirely agree with... Yeah, I get it, it’s a very sensitive subject, and my experience (and point of view) had a lot to do with the earlier visit to the Holocaust Museum, but as we know, true or not, the history is written by the winners…
Let’s step out and get some fresh air. This topic can get “deep” in a hurry, and this is not the place for it… Some of that fresh air – with a significant dose of aromatics – can be found at the Botanic Garden next door. If that’s not your thing, then walk across Union Square, grab a few pics of the Capitol and Ulysses Grant Memorial, and continue the museum-crawl…
First on this side of the Mall: the National Gallery of Art. Not as great as NY or Paris, but pretty decent. I have a soft spot for impressionism, and that section does not disappoint. My daughter loved it the most out of all the museums (which is something you wouldn’t typically expect from a 13 year old); her explanation (quite logical I’m afraid): “I don’t have to read what everything is, as I did in the other museums; I can just “feel” this one!”
Once done with all the paintings and sculptures, take another breather in the sculpture garden down the street. There is a small French inspired café, but I’m afraid the only French thing about it is the architecture… But the garden provides another opportunity to rest tired legs (I think I already mentioned there’s A LOT of walking in DC)
Across Constitution Avenue, the National Archives are just
what the name suggests. For history
buffs (and not only) the two main documents on display – Declaration of
Independence and Constitution – are worth waiting in line for. And speaking of lines, the entrances facing
the mall are usually much more crowded.
In most cases, Constitution and Independence Ave. sides have shorter
lines. Tried and true!
Next, and last on the museum row (at least for now, until the African American History and Culture opens in Sept 2016) is the Museum of American History. It’s not all open, as some exhibits are still under way, but the ones that are on display are quite interesting: first ladies’ gowns are a big hit, so is the section with all the presidential memorabilia. The transportation hall is pretty cool also. And the foodie in me loved the replica of Julia Child’s kitchen, the first “celebrity chef” if you will, who paved the way for this multi-million dollar industry today…
As you complete the “loop” around the Mall, one other
(non-Smithsonian) museum worth a visit is the Holocaust Memorial. The quietest museum you’ll ever be in… and a
psychologically and emotionally “draining” experience to boot. It’s usually crowded, so getting tickets in
advance (time-slotted) would help.
Aside from these “main” museums, I also recommend a couple additional
attractions. The Zoo, also part of the
Smithsonian, so it’s free, and the National Cathedral, where state funerals for
Reagan and Ford were held (check for times, as depending on service schedules
it may not be available for a full tour).
The former is better than most Zoos we’ve visited, while the latter is
quite imposing. Sixth in the world, in size, it’s quite an imposing structure,
and the interior design/architecture is quite exquisite. Take the elevator up to the towers for nice
panoramic views as well.
Despite all the museums and memorials, the main attractions
in DC are some of the government establishments. But visiting these takes a lot more advanced
planning…
The Capitol is an imposing building. Up on the hill, overseeing the Mall below, is
a definite stop for a visit to DC. Years
ago, it didn’t have a full-fledged visitor center as it does today, so we had
to schedule a tour through or senator.
Today, one can schedule a tour online (and be part of a larger group) or
still opt for the more “personal” visit.
I arranged mine through the office of our senator, and our group was
only 9 people. The intern that “guided”
us was very knowledgeable and had good stories about every little corner of the
place. The visit – which took almost 2 hours
– included the underground tram commute from the Russell building, the “crypt”,
the old Supreme Court chamber, the old Senate and House chambers, the new House
chamber (we visited this on our last trip and since at that time our group was
only 4 people, we were able to go down to the floor and push the yea/nay voting
buttons). As time was running out, we
didn’t catch the new Senate chamber before it closed for the day…. Maybe next
time. The one drawback: they’re
repairing the cupola (or rotunda) which means the outside view is all
scaffolds, while the interior paintings across the rotunda walls, and the view
itself is covered. They won’t be done
with all the renovation before the 2017 presidential inauguration, but the
story is that they’ll take it all down for the ceremony, then put it back
up. Typical government waste of time and
money. I for one, would leave it alone…
Another interesting place to visit is the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, for a quick peek of how the ol’ “greenback” is made. Interesting tour, to say the least, but unfortunately, no pics inside the facility (as if that would keep anyone from trying to counterfeit the bills). A pretty nice little “printing” shop indeed ;-). Oh, and for this one, I got there just after 7 am (ticket booth opened at 8) and was 5th or so in line. I’d say if you line up before 7:30 you’d be OK to get tickets for the day, but the earlier you get there, the better choices of admission times…
The “cherry on top” for us this time around was the White House visit. One typically has to apply 6 months in advance for a chance to get it (limited, as you would imagine). Last time we didn’t make it, but this time around, we got lucky! So at 8 am on a raining Saturday morning we lined up for the security check. The experience was memorable indeed. East Wing entrance, Library, China room, the East Room (where JFK’s body laid in state), Green, Blue and Red rooms, the State Dining room and Old Family Dining rooms are all so rich with history. And the funny thing, as much as it looks like a 2 story building, it apparently has about 6 levels (most underneath, as you’d imagine). For a bit of history, in 1814 the Brits burned the whole thing down; it was rebuilt, and went through several renovations since then, the biggest one being a complete overhaul of the interior around 1950 (took about 3 years). So it’s due for another major touch-up. And who knows, if Trump will be the next resident, he may turn it into something altogether new; he is a real estate developer after all ;-). Kidding of course, but ‘the Donald” in the White House? Now that’s a scary thought…
If you can’t score tour tickets, the next best thing is the
WH Visitors Center, just across the street from the East entrance. Check this out for details and better pics: https://whitehouse.gov1.info/visit/tour.html.
For dinner, however, the scene is much more improved. Between Google, and Yelp, and Tripadvisor,
and Zagat, you’ll get plenty of recommendations. Personally, I went a different route: I absolutely love José Andrés (who came out
of Ferran Adrià’s school at El Bulli) and since he has several restaurants in
DC, the decision was easy: try one each day.
I actually would have needed another day for China Chilcano, but maybe
next time…
Jaleo was first (also had dinner at the one in Vegas last
year) and it didn’t disappoint. Liquid
olives (never as good as the ones in Barcelona at Tickets), jamón, piquillos,
patatas bravas (with the spicy alioli), and baby squid, some of my
favorites. The Spanish cheeses also a
must try!
Zaytinya was the second (it means “olive oil” in Turkish)
and the best of the ones we tried (hard to make that distinction; they were all
very good, this one was slightly better).
A Mediterranean place, blending Greek, Turkish and Lebanese dishes in a
way that I have not encountered before (and I had very good Mediterranean food
before). All the traditional spreads
were amazing (the “combo” included hummus, htipiti, tzatziki, taramosalata,
baba ghanoush, and tabbouleh and they were all finger-licking-icious; not to
speak of the house flat bread!). Loved
the lamb bahar and some of the vegetarian dishes (cauliflower, eggplant, all
delicious). Very loud, busy, but great
vibe about the place. And top-notch
service!
Third was Oyamel.
Mexican. But not the run-of-the
mill kind. Great cocktails. Fresh ceviche. Table-side guacamole. Traditional tacos. Original dishes with deep roots south of the
border. Cochinita pibíl (which brought
me back to Zarela back in NY 15 years ago; still one of my all-time Mexican
favorites, regrettably now closed). I
tried Chapulines for the first time (Oaxacan specialty of sautéed grasshoppers,
shallots, tequila and guacamole). Andrew
Zimmern, here I come!
For a night cap, one evening I managed to get reservations
at barmini – a “cocktail lab” where mixologists (can’t call them simply
bartenders because they’re artists at what they do) offer a very different, and
original libations menu. Think dry ice “clouds”
infused with various aromas, unfamiliar yet very flavorful bitters, bourbon glasses
infused with oak that was burned right under your nose, house-made cotton candy
as part of an “old fashioned”, spices, flowers, you get the point. A nice ambiance (reservations-only, to ensure
the proper level of service and server-to-client ratio) and total immersion in taste
and scent. I recall a gin cocktail that
had a lavender flower resting atop the big ice cube… every sip was precluded by
a sniff of the lavender. Same principle
on the second drink, only this time the combination was orange zest, habaneros
and tequila. Laura’s favorite: the “After 8 Milkshake”
(ice-cream, milk, rum, and one or two other “adult” ingredients). It was actually pretty amazing: a drink and
desert all in one. Happy, happy! Oh, and if the cocktails get to you, they do
offer a small selection of the dishes from the minibar restaurant next door (a
12-seater molecular gastronomy “temple” that usually requires an act of God for
reservations, and where the 25+ course menu starts around $250) 
As you can see, we packed a lot in a 4 day trip. Lots of walking (first day we “clocked” about
9 miles) and didn’t leave too many stones unturned. DC is indeed a big tourist destination. But in the same time, a very educational
destination as well. It’s history, and
culture, tradition, progress, all meshed together harmoniously [for the most
part]. It looks like any ol’ major
metropolis, but for all the good and bad that goes on behind its doors, it is
the capital of these here states. And we
enjoyed it. A lot!
...one last quick peek before heading home...
