When pressed for time, I appreciate the “visitor” double decker buses, as they provide
the narrative along the itinerary, and the convenience of stopping on the way. First
halt, Cerro San Cristobal and the cable car ride for panoramic views of the
city below. Unfortunately, summer days tend to be hot and hazy, which combined
with pollution make the mountains in the distance barely visible. We passed
through the park, although one can spend an entire day visiting the Japanese Gardens,
Botanical Gardens, or the Zoo.
We took the funicular down, from the other end
of the hill, and walked through Patronato – a more “colorful” part of town, on
the way to the Central Market. Word to the wise: this is a part of town where
one shouldn’t venture alone, display opulence, and keep an eye on the purse or
the phone. We were even alerted to that by one of the locals, that clearly
recognized we were out of place, sticking out like sore thumbs. But we’re Romanians;
we’ve certainly been through worse…
The Central Market was a disappointment. I envisioned
something similar to the markets in other bigger cities, but this one felt “tired”,
dirty and unkept, with uninviting odors of dead fish and rotten fruits wafting from
all corners. Sure, the fish stalls were well stocked, with a large variety of
fish, but beyond that, there were maybe a couple fruit and vegetable stalls,
and that’s it. The rest of the market… aggressive “hosts” inviting you to dine
into their “restaurants” (quotes used on purpose). Couldn’t get out of there
fast enough…
The remaining few blocks to Plaza de Armas and the
Metropolitan Cathedral are littered with all kinds of shops, most of them heavily
guarded. Makes tourists feel safe, but there must be a reason for their
presence (there have been increasing reports about safety, crime, and civil
unrest, both here and especially in Valparaiso). The Cathedral – over 200 years old – is an
imposing edifice and worth a quick visit. Get up to the bell towers if you have
time.
We strolled through the area and eventually got out of the heat to enjoy some pisco sours at Chipe Libre. Other notable watering holes or lunch options in the area: Liguria (especially for the 3-story tall bar and the old-school service!), Bocanariz, Salvador Cocina y Café, or, near Costanera, Ambrosia Bistro, Fuente Alemana, or Tacu Tacu (this last one, an amazing ceviche place we gorged the night before; the Nikkei ceviche, a huge hit!).
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"Blessed pisco
Sweet torment
Why are you outside?
Come on in!" |
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| ...small world (found Bucharest street in Santiago) |
Since we’re talking food, there are so, so many good options
in Santiago (https://www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/sitemap/chile/santiago).
The Pacific is an hour away, meaning seafood is top notch. Borago has been one of the best in the world
for years; a pioneer in sustainability (reservations are tough to get). Ambrosia is an up and comer (the Bistro is
their more affordable option). We opted for Peumayén Ancestral Food, mostly
because it advertised “traditional Chilean food using indigenous ingredients
and techniques. It was hit and miss. Appetizers and small bites were good, some
quite interesting, but the main dishes fell a bit short. Interesting, overall,
but if you only have a day or two in the city, there are better options.
One of
those is La Mar. Another “cebiceria” where ingredients are so fresh, and the “leche
de tigre” so delicious, that my mouth is watering as I write this. It was – by far
– the best ceviche I ever had in my life. If you can’t make it to Santiago,
they have locations in Miami and San Francisco as well.
Day two, we took the double-decker to Plaza de La
Constitución and Palacio de la Moneda (Presidential offices). Imposing
Christmas tree right up front. Twenty-foot Nutcrackers. But not easy to get
into the holiday spirit when it’s 90 degrees outside…
From there, off to Santa Lucía park – a smaller hill with a
picturesque, manicured park featuring terraces, fountains, and old castle, and
a summit viewpoint.
There is a Craft
Fair across the street, but we preferred the shaded option of the aforementioned
Liguria bar, cooling off with another round of pisco sours (so refreshing on a
hot summer day). Behind an unassuming entrance, the bar/restaurant it’s an absolute delight on 3 levels, each with a very unique character. Worth a stop, for the ambiance and service alone!
Before dinner, and for last minute souvenirs, we stopped at Costanera
Mall. A behemoth on 6 levels (at least) so busy, in contrast to most malls in
the States. Clearly Amazon, and online shopping in general are still to make an
impact in Santiago… For kids, active adults, or just another reprieve from the
sun, Mall Sport is a huge venue with every imaginable activity, from wall
climbing, to indoor surfing, to bumper cars and everything in between. Worth a detour
if travelling with teens.
Later on, last packing of the trip and off to the airport
for a late (12:05 am late) flight to Bogotá.
Kudos to the nice folks at AC Marriott for outstanding service and going
the extra mile to accommodate us in every way! The outdoor bar, with a
fantastic panorama of the city, is not too shabby either. And if you’re into
all that, the Sky Costanera next door is the highest viewpoint in South America
(300 meters); for about $18 it might be worth it, but only if the visibility is
good. In our case, the hotel room offered just as much…
Next: a quick layover in Bogotá, before heading home: https://disdatdudder.blogspot.com/2024/02/patagonia-beyond-9-of-9-half-day-in.html
Quick jumps to all the other legs of this trip:
