Dis, Dat & Dee Udder ;-): Patagonia & Beyond (6 of 9)

[San Carlos de] Bariloche is the largest ski resort in South America. Somewhat resembling Lake Tahoe, it’s situated in the Patagonian Lake District, on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Very green. Lots of vegetation. In stark contrast to the arid steppe and bare, snow-covered granite peaks further south. Rustic. A mix of lake and mountain vibes everywhere. Heavy Swiss and German influence. Famed for chocolate, among other things. Good restaurants. Enjoyed an exquisite dinner and stunning sunset at Stag, a nice venue perched just above the lake. El Patacón was another recommendation, but surprisingly, closed for the holidays.

In the summer, the area offers lots of outdoor options. Beaches. Water sports. Hiking. Biking. You name it. One of the main draws, 30 minutes outside the city, is Circuito Chico, a 17-mile loop affording stunning scenery from multiple viewpoints along the way. Hotels Tunquelén or Llao Llao are good for a quick stop. Multiple hiking trailheads spawn from this road. Take your pick. They’re all amazing, with equally breathtaking endpoints. Punto Panorámico (don’t even have to get out of the car) is a postcard. But just before, stop for a cold brew at Cerveceria Patagonia. Call ahead for reservations, if interested in lunch or dinner. Enjoyable drive, but we did this on Jan 31, so it was extremely busy! Some people even do it on bikes (rental outfits available) but that’s unadvisable in 90+ weather…

Local currency

Squirrel escabeche, anyone?

Multi-species
bathroom

On the way back to town, Cero Campanario, Teleférico Cerro Otto, or Teleférico Catedral can whisk you up the mountain for excellent panoramic vistas. Unfortunately, most were closed, or had limited operating hours for New Year. The town itself was busy. Souvenir shops. Artisanal stuff. Cafes and restaurants. But don’t skip Rapa Nui – a chocolate shop sprawling over an entire city block, complete with an indoor skating rink!

We tried to find reservations for a New Years’ party. Llao Llao, with all its five stars, was prohibitively expensive. Arelauquen Lodge, a Marriott property, was limited to guests only. In the end, Hotel Panamericano (also Marriott) offered a decent option, in an otherwise surprisingly sleepy town, for around $135: full sprawling buffet (quite a spread!), open bar, live entertainment, and a DJ. Happy New Year!!!

Why add Bariloche to the itinerary? We wanted to experience a different part of Patagonia. Also, Mendoza was the next stop, but there were no direct flights from El Calafate, and didn’t want to connect through Buenos Aires again. Plus, all wineries were closed for New Year’s. Regardless, it’s definitely a nice place to visit if you’re in the area. No regrets. Maybe we’ll be back for a ski trip someday, especially with the crazy prices for lift tickets in the US these days…