South Florida Spring Break - Part 2

Key West (Cayo Hueso)

Following Hwy 1 South through Coral Gables and Palmetto Bay you run out of “land” at some point and hit the marshland of the Florida Glades.  Shortly after, you’re driving through the famed Keys, starting with the larger ones (Largo, Plantation, Islamorada, Marathon) before hitting the smaller ones (too many to count) and ending up in Key West.

So, 510 years after Ponce De León “discovered” the Florida Keys we descended upon Key West after a 120+ mile drive down the Overseas Highway.  Amazing drive over bridges connecting the islands, feeling almost like you’re floating on water (especially on the Seven Mile Bridge).  The island is quite small (less than 8 square miles) and the city itself – the southernmost in the US – is actually closer to Havana, Cuba (94 miles) than Miami (160 miles).  And it’s quite unique, given that in the “Old Town” most buildings (well preserved for the most part) date back to the late 1800’s and early 1900’s!  It still feels like a throwback to older, simpler times, which have inspired over time the likes of Hemingway, Tennessee Williams and Jimmy Buffet.  Various “tourist traps” try to steal that spirit, but it’s all still there if you chose to venture a block or two off the beaten path…

Views from the Seven Mile Bridge (to and from the Keys) 

The Conch Republic – as it’s known in local circles – briefly declared “independence” from the states back in 1982 when the US Border Patrol became overzealous in response to a Cuban exodus knows as the Mariel boatlift.  Obviously that didn’t stick, but the name has.  Incidentally, Conch was a name given to immigrants from the Bahamas who came in droves during the 1830’s.  Today it refers to the natives of Key West (while “implants” from the north are symbolically called Freshwater Conch).

Key West is another adults-only playground, with its fair share of gay/lesbian representation (statistics show that 40% of the locals are actually in that category) yet conveys a much more relaxed, laid-back atmosphere when compared to Miami Beach.  Duval Street – the main thoroughfare – is littered with pubs, bars that offer live music (the famed Sloppy Joes where apparently Hemingway “drew” a lot of inspiration from [or was it “drank”?]) drag shows, second-rate restaurants, and [low quality] cigar shops (I guess that’s attributed to proximity to Cuba, although the quality of the ‘habanas’ is questionable at best).

 

 

 

Key West is mainly an adult destination, unless one of these drops anchor...

As much as Duval Street is noted for the “bar scene” and “people watching” (sort of a Burbon Street flavor to it), I’d recommend staying away from it if you’re looking for a nice dinner place (in terms of quality and ambiance that is).  Most of the notable [quality] restaurants (Blue Heaven, Seven Fish, El Siboney, just to rattle off a few) are off the beaten path.  We did, however, find an exception in Bagatelle, right on Duval; a bit pricier, but well worth the extra bucks.  Phenomenal food and awesome pie! Key Lime, that is! 

For a trip to the Keys is not complete without gorging on my favorite desert!  Kermit’s seems to be a local favorite (Bagatelle serves their pies), but from what I hear (and what “experts” are saying) Blond Giraffe’s is equally good.  Despite being more of a tourist theme (as limes are primarily grown in Mexico today) [Key] Lime Pie on any of its forms is at least one of the reasons that brings people to the Keys.  I just wish I had more while down there; but the overnight trip was definitely too short for a full experience.  Promise to be back though, sans enfants!

The beaches in Key West are nothing to write home about.  Small, with rocky “edges” but the water is clean and the diving/snorkeling [I hear] is excellent.  Fort Zachary Taylor state park is the one beach worth visiting, albeit for a small admission fee.

Other attractions are the local marina, boat tours, Fort Jefferson and the Dry Tortugas (70 miles away by boat), and the historic houses of [former president] Truman and Hemingway.  Have seen none of them, so can’t offer an opinion.  Maybe next time…

The one other tourist “attraction” is a concrete buoy near the Truman Annex (Navy property) that’s not even accurate on what it claims, yet makes for another ‘Kodak’ spot.  In actuality, there are a couple of private islands further south, and even some of the land owned by the Navy (or portions of the aforementioned state park) lie further south.  Fun fact: this used to be just a small sign that was often stolen, before local authorities built this in 1983.  Good luck stealing this, they said!  So all we did was ‘steal’ a picture!

West Palm Beach & the Florida Gold Coast

The rest of the vacation took us up and down the Florida Gold Coast, with a relaxing 5 day stint at a Marriott property on Singer Island (West Palm Beach).  Not much in terms of sightseeing, unless you count the ever-present yachts, boats, waterfront mansions and golf courses (seems like one around every corner).  The area ‘screams’ expensive, with manicured lawns, lush vegetation, gated communities, designer shopping, expensive cars and people who average over 60 years old and 2-3 (minimum) “corrective” surgeries.  We were by far the youngest group around…

 The hotel's back yard...

...and views from the balcony...

Yet again, if you’re looking for rest and relaxation, this is the place to be.  Just make sure you pack a thick wallet!

Some suggestions I’d offer: a water taxi ride among the inner canals that would make you gawk stupidly at some of the mansions, mini-castles and accompanying watercraft, a visit to the City Place downtown WPB, where I recommend Italy for amazing gelato [for those of you who live in Atlanta, Paolo’s in Virginia-Highlands is just as good, if not better] or a short drive further south to Havana, for authentic Cuban cuisine [this was recommended by our Cuban bartender].  There are many other “attractions” undoubtedly, but all we cared about after the Atlanta – Ft. Lauderdale – South Beach – Miami – Key West three-day marathon, was a relaxing resort, sunshine and umbrella-bearing drinks.

Driving back to Ft. Lauderdale from West Palm, A1 hugs the coastline and takes you through the diamond-studded scenery of the Gold Coast:  Delray Beach, Boca Raton, Deerfield, Pompano, etc.  More of the same, left and right: mansions, yachts, lush landscaping, just opulent, extravagant wealth.  The area is considered to be the heaviest concentration of “money” outside of certain part of California. Robin Leach would only have to close his eyes and throw a dart to find the next location for his show…

 

 

 

This is some of the 'scenery' along the Gold Coast...

$15-20+ Million can put you in one of these...ehmm...'houses'

So there you have it.  A quick account of the South Florida Spring Break getaway.  It took us through places that truly define “vacation”, places that we’ll definitely revisit soon.