Instagram. TikTok. Youtube. Facebook (for us "older" folk). A constant barrage of posts with beaches and emerald waters. Whitewashed buildings perched on arid rock. Blue domed churches. Amazing sunsets. Extravangant parties. Once can only resist so much before blurting "I want to go there". But then, what? What if it's not just a "sigh" in passing? What if you want to actually act on that desire?
So then, what’s left?
Well, let’s explore a bit. Location is the first “filter”. The Ionian is home to some gorgeous islands (they call it the Greek Caribbean). Climate is not as dry and vegetation abounds. They are also bigger than the ones in the Aegean. Corfu and Kefalonia are the top two. Zakynthos, Lefkada, and Ithaca are close behind. All amazing according to the people I talked to and the general “wisdom” from across “the internet” 😉
The Argosaronic islands – closest to the mainland – are quick getaways for the locals and unique for not allowing cars. Hydra and Poros tend to be the main options.
At the “far end” of the Aegean, Crete is a destination on its own. It’s big enough to where it doesn’t feel cramped, and it offers enough choices for any budget. The beaches are great, people are nice, proud of their culture and heritage (after all, this is where Zeus was born!). The island just has it all.
Further to the east – the Dodecanese – is known primarily for Rhodes (with its long and impressive history) but there are a couple of others worth a stop: Symi, Patmos, and Kalymnon (renowned for harvesting natural sponges)
On the North Aegean, Chios (birthplace of Homer and best mastic in all of Greece) and Lesvos benefit from the proximity to Turkey, in terms of ottoman influences; this part of the Aegean is not quite on the tourist circuit…
…which leaves – last, but not the very least – the Cyclades, as the most desired destination for anyone with a thirst for Greek islands. This area alone offers about 33 islands to choose from, and aside from Santorini and Mykonos (covered in more detail below) the other potential options, in some prioritized fashion, are:
Naxos – a favorite of Greeks and tourists alike, it made my shortlist, but ultimately we decided on Paros, mainly because of its size
Paros – our other stop on this trip, equally enjoyable, but at a fraction of the cost of Santorini and Mykonos; with Antiparos as an option (more tranquil; Tom Hanks has a villa there)
Ios – similar to Mykonos, catering to a younger, party-focused demographic
Milos – for jaw-dropping beaches and natural landscapes, Sifnos and Folegandros (all 3 a bit off the path, so less likely to fight the crowds)
Syros, Serifos, and Tinos (all on the north part of the Cyclades) offer quieter, more authentic, and less expensive alternatives to Mykonos
Amorgos and Irakleia for special mention, in case the ones above are not enough
Overwhelmed yet? Even after all this “filtering” there are still about 28 worth a visit. 14 of them in the Cyclades alone. From here, it becomes a matter of preference. Is it nightlife? Want to "see and be seen"? (then head to Mykonos or Ios), Beaches? (they’re all great, really, with clear, turquoise waters, but fine sand is not always a guarantee, as some are quite rocky), Culture? Gastronomy? (I didn’t have one bad meal on the islands) History, or Religion? In the end, any of them will fit the bill in some measure. It was amazing as a first impression; I’m sure it will be equally impactful the second time around.
I won’t spend more time on this. There are plenty of resources out there to help with planning (see some links at the very end); just note that July and August tend to be the busier months [read crowded and more expensive] and it’s also very hot. Everyone we spoke with – including many locals – suggested late September as the best time. May/early June is good also, but the waters are still too cold.
Let’s get on with our little adventure then!
Well, let’s explore a bit. Location is the first “filter”. The Ionian is home to some gorgeous islands (they call it the Greek Caribbean). Climate is not as dry and vegetation abounds. They are also bigger than the ones in the Aegean. Corfu and Kefalonia are the top two. Zakynthos, Lefkada, and Ithaca are close behind. All amazing according to the people I talked to and the general “wisdom” from across “the internet” 😉
The Argosaronic islands – closest to the mainland – are quick getaways for the locals and unique for not allowing cars. Hydra and Poros tend to be the main options.
At the “far end” of the Aegean, Crete is a destination on its own. It’s big enough to where it doesn’t feel cramped, and it offers enough choices for any budget. The beaches are great, people are nice, proud of their culture and heritage (after all, this is where Zeus was born!). The island just has it all.
Further to the east – the Dodecanese – is known primarily for Rhodes (with its long and impressive history) but there are a couple of others worth a stop: Symi, Patmos, and Kalymnon (renowned for harvesting natural sponges)
On the North Aegean, Chios (birthplace of Homer and best mastic in all of Greece) and Lesvos benefit from the proximity to Turkey, in terms of ottoman influences; this part of the Aegean is not quite on the tourist circuit…
…which leaves – last, but not the very least – the Cyclades, as the most desired destination for anyone with a thirst for Greek islands. This area alone offers about 33 islands to choose from, and aside from Santorini and Mykonos (covered in more detail below) the other potential options, in some prioritized fashion, are:
Naxos – a favorite of Greeks and tourists alike, it made my shortlist, but ultimately we decided on Paros, mainly because of its size
Paros – our other stop on this trip, equally enjoyable, but at a fraction of the cost of Santorini and Mykonos; with Antiparos as an option (more tranquil; Tom Hanks has a villa there)
Ios – similar to Mykonos, catering to a younger, party-focused demographic
Milos – for jaw-dropping beaches and natural landscapes, Sifnos and Folegandros (all 3 a bit off the path, so less likely to fight the crowds)
Syros, Serifos, and Tinos (all on the north part of the Cyclades) offer quieter, more authentic, and less expensive alternatives to Mykonos
Amorgos and Irakleia for special mention, in case the ones above are not enough
Overwhelmed yet? Even after all this “filtering” there are still about 28 worth a visit. 14 of them in the Cyclades alone. From here, it becomes a matter of preference. Is it nightlife? Want to "see and be seen"? (then head to Mykonos or Ios), Beaches? (they’re all great, really, with clear, turquoise waters, but fine sand is not always a guarantee, as some are quite rocky), Culture? Gastronomy? (I didn’t have one bad meal on the islands) History, or Religion? In the end, any of them will fit the bill in some measure. It was amazing as a first impression; I’m sure it will be equally impactful the second time around.
I won’t spend more time on this. There are plenty of resources out there to help with planning (see some links at the very end); just note that July and August tend to be the busier months [read crowded and more expensive] and it’s also very hot. Everyone we spoke with – including many locals – suggested late September as the best time. May/early June is good also, but the waters are still too cold.
Let’s get on with our little adventure then!
Oh, wait! Before we get started... As usual, these are my vacation impressions, experiences and personal opinions. None of the places mentioned provided any "kickbacks" or incentives. Any recommendations happen to be based on my own experience. Your opinions may be different. The lens through which you read this may have a different prescription. And that's ok. Just enjoy and hope it helps in case you're planning a similar trip!
The entry point is Athens – naturally – and the first stop beyond there dictates if a plane or a ferry is the better option. We did both on this trip, and there are benefits either way. My suggestion: fly to the furthest destination, then island-hop via ferry to make it back to Athens.
After a loooong [roughly 11 hours] flight from Atlanta, and a quick layover, I boarded the one-hour Aegean Air flight to Santorini. It barely takes off before it starts preparations to land. And the Santorini airport is so small, that it takes no time to get through. Just make sure you have the transfer to the hotel already booked. Most hotels provide that service (for a fee). In our case, we stayed at Harah’s Houses and Anna, the ever-accomodating lady who runs the place, went over and above with all kinds of support: from booking all the transfers, to car rentals, cruise reservations, dinners, etc. Just like any full-service concierge would do! I wholeheartedly recommend Anna and her place!
There are a ton of choices when it comes to lodging in Santorini. For every budget and preference. The high-end ones are quite exorbitant! Some prefer the hustle and bustle of Oia. Dreamy sunsets. Fancy restaurants. Upscale shopping. Luxe hotels. But too crowded for my taste. Dozens of busses full of cruise day-trippers exacerbate that sentiment. Others prefer the equally hectic Fira (the largest “village” on the island) with even more shops, restaurants, and thousands coming ashore from the cruise ships anchored in the gulf. This one is even more geared toward tourists…
We preferred something a little off the beaten path, but equally impressive when it came to the Caldera views. Imerovigli is a 20-min walk north of Fira, with all the charm, but more laid back. Still, plenty of bars and restaurants; just not a shopping mecca.
Hara’s Houses are perched on a very steep cliff, requiring [exactly] 107 steps to make it all the way down to the pool. That means anyone challenged by that many steps, should look elsewhere for lodging. We did our fair share of cardio at least 3 times a day! But more importantly, dragging luggage up and down those steps can be a serious workout. Thank God for the porters available to provide that back-breaking relief!
The place itself was perfect. Provides all the amenities and the rooms are large and comfortable. There’s even a small kitchen, but who would want to cook when all those great restaurants are only a few steps away…
Oh, and did I mention the pool at the bottom of all those steps? Edge of the cliff. Amazing panoramic views of the Caldera and the cruise ships below. Blue water. Clear blue skies. An adult beverage or two. In this setting, the nine-to-five world you left back home evaporates in an instant!
As for dinner options in Imerovigli, most hotels have nice restaurants (with wonderful sunset views). Anogi was a good recommendation. Great authentic cuisine. Aktaion (in Firostefani) was another suggestion. Athenian House, a splurge, but surprisingly the $130-150 price fixe menu offered limited options. We were looking for fresh, authentic, not fancy… Ended up at Tholos, just above the Skaros Rock. Enjoyable sunset dinner and a leisurely stroll back to the hotel. Considered for a minute stopping for a night cap at Bar to Navagio, or La Maison, but ended up by the pool enjoying more local wine under the clear moonlit sky.
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Day 2 was reserved for a trip around the island. There are many outfits providing cookie-cutter or customized itineraries, but I prefer a more self-paced approach. A guided tour would have been close to $100 per person. Multiplied 8 times, it justifies a couple of rented cars ($75 each). Copying their itinerary was the easy part; sticking to it, not so much!
The Akrotiri Light House (one of the oldest in Greece, circa 1892) is a 30-minute drive to the southwestern tip of the island. An easy drive, with the Caldera in full view on the right. The lighthouse itself not imposing, nor open to the public, but people gather on the nearby rocks in the evening for amazing sunset views. This morning there was no one around…
From there, the next stop was Red Beach (15 mins away) where the sea carved a small beach into the red lava rock. Quite unique! The Black Beach and White Beach (hinting at the stone façade making up the backdrop landscape) are also nearby. We “visited” them from the sea during our catamaran trip (more on that later). Another point of interest nearby is the old Akrotiri settlement (Bronze Age, 20-17th Century BC) but a visit to a nearby winery took precedence over looking at old rocks 😉. We all have our priorities, right?
Next stop, the village of Pyrgos for a quick lunch of Greek meze at Kantouni. Phenomenal food. Great service. And best baklava we had in the entire trip. Up the street Cava Alta would be another good option for lunch, but it was empty at the time…
Full bellies and a bit rested we hiked up the top of the hill to Pyrgos Castle, a former fortress (1580’s) and the highest point in the island. Beautiful panoramic views from among the ruin walls. On the way back down, the narrow streets are littered with gift shops and tiny art galleries.
Less than 4 miles away, Prophet Elias Monastery would have been the next stop. Not as high up, but similar panoramic views of the island. Then another winery to cool off (Estate Argyros being closest). But due to tired legs, an extremely unforgiving sun, and a desire to take a dip in the pool, we stopped the tour short. Returned the cars. Popped into the local market for feta, tomatoes, beer, more wine, and took a breather by the pool enjoying some of the wine bought earlier at Gavalas.
Small parentheses on Greek cheese. Feta is best, of course, but discovered Mizithra/Xinomizithra, which I loved, and enjoyed one or two Kasseri saganaki during the trip as well! Yummm!!!
For dinner, we dropped off the cars and walked over to Fira for a liesurely stroll through the narrow streets.
Restaurant options abound in Fira. Argo, OhBoy, Aris, Nikolas, and Naoussa made the shortlist, but there are many more on that cliff. Anna secured reservations at Argo for us. Simply delightful. Had our own private balcony to enjoy great food, that Gavalas blue bottle (several actually), and another amazing sunset. Memories for a lifetime! Afterward, drink options at Tango, MoMix, or Casablanca Soul. We preferred “to go” options, as we continued to stroll through the narrow streets, then ultimately back to the hotel. Easily 15,000 steps that day, with a nightcap replay under the same moonlit sky!
Day 3 in Santorini was reserved for a semi-private catamaran sailing. There are multiple options, but Renieris and Spiridakos are the more reputable ones. We picked the latter and it didn’t disappoint. Enjoyed hanging out with the crew, the free-flowing beverages (Yamas!), and the grilled lunch provided, but most importantly, relished the opportunity to see the island from a different vantage point and get to cool off in the clear blue waters of the Aegean.
In the end, Oia was not as memorable as I imagined it. Maybe we had much higher expectations. Maybe we were already “overdosed” on Santorini from the previous 2 nights. Or maybe too tired. Maybe the setting was not optimal (we purposely did not book another “sunset-view” dinner). Maybe the 3 cruise ships anchored in the bay sent everyone there (I imagine “day trip to Oia” is their #1 seller). Maybe that’s just how it is on any given July evening. Or maybe it really IS a tourist trap and that’s that. As I mentioned earlier, “shoulder” season would be more advisable for a trip to the Greek islands.
Next morning, time to say goodbye to this lovely island and that lovely panorama that we woke up to every day. Mimosas. A wonderful breakfast of pastries, tomatoes, and feta. Packing. Admiring the young porters running up the stairs with 25 kilos on each shoulder. And off to the new port to catch a ferry to Paros.
The ferry ride itself, a new experience. They clearly have this sea travel thing figured out. Booked tickets in advance (price ranges with distance, company, and seating preference). There are “regular” (slower) ferries that allow passengers out on the deck, but most are high-speed, some reaching 50 knots per hour (57 mph or 92 kmph)! A regular ferry makes the trip from Athens to Santorini in about 8 hours, while the high-speed one, in 5. And here’s why it makes sense to “ferry” between islands, instead of flying: tickets cost a third, or half (depending on class chosen) and there is no charge for luggage. Also, no need to be at the airport an hour in advance. Ferries are definitely the more practical, economical, and fun way to travel (unless the sea is acting all crazy). Pack some Dramamine just in case.
General info on Greek islands: https://www.visitgreece.gr/islands/
Hara’sHouses: https://www.santorini-harashouses.com/
Old Akrotiri Settlement: http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410
Santorini Wineries: https://santorinidave.com/best-santorini-wineries or https://www.thecuriouscreature.com/2019/09/29/6-best-wineries-in-santorini-greece-santorini-vineyards/ or https://unravelingwine.com/santorini-winery/
Gavalas wines: https://www.gavalaswines.gr/wines
Greek cheese: https://www.chefspencil.com/most-popular-greek-cheeses/
Pyrgos Castle: https://www.santorini-view.com/castles/castle-of-pyrgos/
Prophet Elias Monastery: https://www.santorini-view.com/attractions/prophet-elias-monastery/
Sailing: https://www.sailingsantorini.gr or https://www.santorini-yachts.com
Hot Springs: https://www.santorini-yachts.com/hot-springs-of-santorini-natures-spa/
Ferry tickets: https://www.ferryhopper.com/en/
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The entry point is Athens – naturally – and the first stop beyond there dictates if a plane or a ferry is the better option. We did both on this trip, and there are benefits either way. My suggestion: fly to the furthest destination, then island-hop via ferry to make it back to Athens.
After a loooong [roughly 11 hours] flight from Atlanta, and a quick layover, I boarded the one-hour Aegean Air flight to Santorini. It barely takes off before it starts preparations to land. And the Santorini airport is so small, that it takes no time to get through. Just make sure you have the transfer to the hotel already booked. Most hotels provide that service (for a fee). In our case, we stayed at Harah’s Houses and Anna, the ever-accomodating lady who runs the place, went over and above with all kinds of support: from booking all the transfers, to car rentals, cruise reservations, dinners, etc. Just like any full-service concierge would do! I wholeheartedly recommend Anna and her place!
There are a ton of choices when it comes to lodging in Santorini. For every budget and preference. The high-end ones are quite exorbitant! Some prefer the hustle and bustle of Oia. Dreamy sunsets. Fancy restaurants. Upscale shopping. Luxe hotels. But too crowded for my taste. Dozens of busses full of cruise day-trippers exacerbate that sentiment. Others prefer the equally hectic Fira (the largest “village” on the island) with even more shops, restaurants, and thousands coming ashore from the cruise ships anchored in the gulf. This one is even more geared toward tourists… We preferred something a little off the beaten path, but equally impressive when it came to the Caldera views. Imerovigli is a 20-min walk north of Fira, with all the charm, but more laid back. Still, plenty of bars and restaurants; just not a shopping mecca.
Hara’s Houses are perched on a very steep cliff, requiring [exactly] 107 steps to make it all the way down to the pool. That means anyone challenged by that many steps, should look elsewhere for lodging. We did our fair share of cardio at least 3 times a day! But more importantly, dragging luggage up and down those steps can be a serious workout. Thank God for the porters available to provide that back-breaking relief!
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| Hara's House #4 |
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| The view from our villa |
The place itself was perfect. Provides all the amenities and the rooms are large and comfortable. There’s even a small kitchen, but who would want to cook when all those great restaurants are only a few steps away…
Oh, and did I mention the pool at the bottom of all those steps? Edge of the cliff. Amazing panoramic views of the Caldera and the cruise ships below. Blue water. Clear blue skies. An adult beverage or two. In this setting, the nine-to-five world you left back home evaporates in an instant!
Two days in Santorini are a minimum (but not enough). Three optimal. Four, even better.
The first day is typically spent fighting jet lag. Some light sightseeing and window shopping in Fira. Maybe some relaxing by the pool with a good bottle of local wine. For the adventurous, there’s Skaros Rock (remains of a Venetian fortress) and Mother of Lord Theoskepasti Holy Orthodox Church. It was only about 20 mins walk from the hotel, but we were dressed for dinner and preferred watching others make the steep descent, cheering them on from a distance while sipping a cold glass of wine. Who said hiking can’t be a spectator sport?
The first day is typically spent fighting jet lag. Some light sightseeing and window shopping in Fira. Maybe some relaxing by the pool with a good bottle of local wine. For the adventurous, there’s Skaros Rock (remains of a Venetian fortress) and Mother of Lord Theoskepasti Holy Orthodox Church. It was only about 20 mins walk from the hotel, but we were dressed for dinner and preferred watching others make the steep descent, cheering them on from a distance while sipping a cold glass of wine. Who said hiking can’t be a spectator sport?
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| The picture, despite being a "10" does not do it justice! |
As for dinner options in Imerovigli, most hotels have nice restaurants (with wonderful sunset views). Anogi was a good recommendation. Great authentic cuisine. Aktaion (in Firostefani) was another suggestion. Athenian House, a splurge, but surprisingly the $130-150 price fixe menu offered limited options. We were looking for fresh, authentic, not fancy… Ended up at Tholos, just above the Skaros Rock. Enjoyable sunset dinner and a leisurely stroll back to the hotel. Considered for a minute stopping for a night cap at Bar to Navagio, or La Maison, but ended up by the pool enjoying more local wine under the clear moonlit sky.
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The Akrotiri Light House (one of the oldest in Greece, circa 1892) is a 30-minute drive to the southwestern tip of the island. An easy drive, with the Caldera in full view on the right. The lighthouse itself not imposing, nor open to the public, but people gather on the nearby rocks in the evening for amazing sunset views. This morning there was no one around…
There are several notable wineries on the island, and their white wines – partly due to the climate, partly to the volcanic soil – are quite unique, in a light, crisp, refreshing, somewhat dry citrusy way. Speaking of terroir, the volcanic nature imparts a certain taste to everything that grows upon it (Santorini tomatoes are world famous) and acts as a natural treatment against harmful plant diseases. No chemicals needed!
Wineries, then…
Santo is the oldest and biggest. Not necessarily best. It benefits from being “on the main road” meaning the hordes of day-trippers from the cruise ships will make this a desirable stop. Easy parking for the big tour busses. I call it a tourist trap and move on. Sure, it’s perched on top of the cliff and apparently has amazing views, but one can enjoy similar views with wine from a better winery.
There are plenty of options in that sense. Google and the local critics provide quite a bunch, but I narrowed it down to a few: Estate Argyros, Venetsanos, Domain Sigalas, Boutari, and Gavalas. Tough choices, as they’re all quite good, but we settled on Gavalas. A boutique, family-owned place, a bit off the tourist main drag, which means it wasn’t too busy (although reservations are usually encouraged). We sampled about 5-6 (mostly whites, since the reds/rose aren’t all that) and loved it. Enalia was exquisite. The Katsano and Santorini “Blue Bottle” were very good (light, crisp, refreshing, dry, yet slightly fruity, with just the right hint of acidity to match well with seafood). We kept looking for their wines at dinner… Yamas!
Wineries, then…
Santo is the oldest and biggest. Not necessarily best. It benefits from being “on the main road” meaning the hordes of day-trippers from the cruise ships will make this a desirable stop. Easy parking for the big tour busses. I call it a tourist trap and move on. Sure, it’s perched on top of the cliff and apparently has amazing views, but one can enjoy similar views with wine from a better winery.
There are plenty of options in that sense. Google and the local critics provide quite a bunch, but I narrowed it down to a few: Estate Argyros, Venetsanos, Domain Sigalas, Boutari, and Gavalas. Tough choices, as they’re all quite good, but we settled on Gavalas. A boutique, family-owned place, a bit off the tourist main drag, which means it wasn’t too busy (although reservations are usually encouraged). We sampled about 5-6 (mostly whites, since the reds/rose aren’t all that) and loved it. Enalia was exquisite. The Katsano and Santorini “Blue Bottle” were very good (light, crisp, refreshing, dry, yet slightly fruity, with just the right hint of acidity to match well with seafood). We kept looking for their wines at dinner… Yamas!
Less than 4 miles away, Prophet Elias Monastery would have been the next stop. Not as high up, but similar panoramic views of the island. Then another winery to cool off (Estate Argyros being closest). But due to tired legs, an extremely unforgiving sun, and a desire to take a dip in the pool, we stopped the tour short. Returned the cars. Popped into the local market for feta, tomatoes, beer, more wine, and took a breather by the pool enjoying some of the wine bought earlier at Gavalas.
Small parentheses on Greek cheese. Feta is best, of course, but discovered Mizithra/Xinomizithra, which I loved, and enjoyed one or two Kasseri saganaki during the trip as well! Yummm!!!
For dinner, we dropped off the cars and walked over to Fira for a liesurely stroll through the narrow streets.
A bit on car rentals and transportation: definitely a preference/convenience thing (if planning a lot of side trips) but know that parking can be difficult and some of the roads (aside from the main ones) are not easy to navigate. The more popular option is to rent an RTV or scooter (much, much easier to navigate and park) but with a group of 8, that wasn’t much of an option for us. Expect to pay anywhere between 65-100+ euros per day, depending on car choice and time of booking. Less so for scooters. Alternatively, transfers can be booked with as little as 15-30 min notice and could be economical given enough “scale” (45 euros for all 8 of us from Fira to Oia).
Fira was buzzing as we were making our way to dinner. It is the “entry” point for all the cruise tourists, and it shows. There are 558 steps from the old port, where boats drop off cruise visitors, to the top of the cliff. The options are walking (I can only imagine the toll, as I was getting winded just by the 100 steps at our hotel) paying 5 euros for a donkey ride (poor beasts, but a unique experience), or the cable car (the significant length of the line there indicated it was the preferred option). Shops are busy. Gyro and souvlaki kiosks are an olfactory delight. Tavernas and restaurant hosts are luring you in for dinner. The smell of grilled fish and meat is everywhere!
Fira was buzzing as we were making our way to dinner. It is the “entry” point for all the cruise tourists, and it shows. There are 558 steps from the old port, where boats drop off cruise visitors, to the top of the cliff. The options are walking (I can only imagine the toll, as I was getting winded just by the 100 steps at our hotel) paying 5 euros for a donkey ride (poor beasts, but a unique experience), or the cable car (the significant length of the line there indicated it was the preferred option). Shops are busy. Gyro and souvlaki kiosks are an olfactory delight. Tavernas and restaurant hosts are luring you in for dinner. The smell of grilled fish and meat is everywhere!
Day 3 in Santorini was reserved for a semi-private catamaran sailing. There are multiple options, but Renieris and Spiridakos are the more reputable ones. We picked the latter and it didn’t disappoint. Enjoyed hanging out with the crew, the free-flowing beverages (Yamas!), and the grilled lunch provided, but most importantly, relished the opportunity to see the island from a different vantage point and get to cool off in the clear blue waters of the Aegean. Definitely worth the experience! The half-day tour included hotel pick up, departure from Oia’s old port, a dip in the Palea Kameni hot springs (naturally occurring under a still active volcano), then stops at the White Beach and Red Beach (this time from the water) ultimately ending in Vlichada (opposite end of the island) and back to the hotel.
The last evening in the island was planned for Oia. Giddy with excitement to see what everyone is raving about. But what a letdown! The narrow streets were inundated with a constant barrage of gawkers and window shoppers. In the “choice” viewing spots (it's all about the sunset) the people were queuing up already, an hour in advance. Everyone wanted to capture that Instagram moment, but no photoshop in the world could edit the crowds out of the picture. It felt overwhelming. Tiring even. After enjoyable evenings in both Imerovigli and Fira, this was a disappointment. Maybe if we came here first, it would have been different. Sure, the whitewashed building down the cliff had the same vibe, and no pictures can do it justice, but most of those are off limits unless you’re a guest or restaurant patron.
Speaking of restaurants, Ammoudi and Armeni (down in the old port) were two suggestions “at water level”. First one, another tourist trap, the second, quite good, apparently. From there, one can trek up the steep narrow steps up into Oia proper, for those Instagramable moments with backdrops of the Oia Caste, the Windmills, and of course, the Blue Domed churches. Other restaurants to consider in the area: Feredini, Candouni (no views, but food more authentic), Skala, Elinikon, and Karma. We settled for Skala – at Anna’s recommendation again – for a nice authentic dinner. The melt-in-your-mouth kid goat cooked overnight in a silky tomato sauce was nothing short of orgasmic… After dinner, Hassapiko, Catch Bar, or Pelekanos are worth a stop for a nightcap and live music.
In the end, Oia was not as memorable as I imagined it. Maybe we had much higher expectations. Maybe we were already “overdosed” on Santorini from the previous 2 nights. Or maybe too tired. Maybe the setting was not optimal (we purposely did not book another “sunset-view” dinner). Maybe the 3 cruise ships anchored in the bay sent everyone there (I imagine “day trip to Oia” is their #1 seller). Maybe that’s just how it is on any given July evening. Or maybe it really IS a tourist trap and that’s that. As I mentioned earlier, “shoulder” season would be more advisable for a trip to the Greek islands.
Next morning, time to say goodbye to this lovely island and that lovely panorama that we woke up to every day. Mimosas. A wonderful breakfast of pastries, tomatoes, and feta. Packing. Admiring the young porters running up the stairs with 25 kilos on each shoulder. And off to the new port to catch a ferry to Paros.
The ferry ride itself, a new experience. They clearly have this sea travel thing figured out. Booked tickets in advance (price ranges with distance, company, and seating preference). There are “regular” (slower) ferries that allow passengers out on the deck, but most are high-speed, some reaching 50 knots per hour (57 mph or 92 kmph)! A regular ferry makes the trip from Athens to Santorini in about 8 hours, while the high-speed one, in 5. And here’s why it makes sense to “ferry” between islands, instead of flying: tickets cost a third, or half (depending on class chosen) and there is no charge for luggage. Also, no need to be at the airport an hour in advance. Ferries are definitely the more practical, economical, and fun way to travel (unless the sea is acting all crazy). Pack some Dramamine just in case.
Next: Paros and Mykonos (or jump to Athens in 2 Days)
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References for some of the things mentioned above:
Hara’sHouses: https://www.santorini-harashouses.com/
Old Akrotiri Settlement: http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410
Santorini Wineries: https://santorinidave.com/best-santorini-wineries or https://www.thecuriouscreature.com/2019/09/29/6-best-wineries-in-santorini-greece-santorini-vineyards/ or https://unravelingwine.com/santorini-winery/
Gavalas wines: https://www.gavalaswines.gr/wines
Greek cheese: https://www.chefspencil.com/most-popular-greek-cheeses/
Pyrgos Castle: https://www.santorini-view.com/castles/castle-of-pyrgos/
Prophet Elias Monastery: https://www.santorini-view.com/attractions/prophet-elias-monastery/
Sailing: https://www.sailingsantorini.gr or https://www.santorini-yachts.com
Hot Springs: https://www.santorini-yachts.com/hot-springs-of-santorini-natures-spa/
Ferry tickets: https://www.ferryhopper.com/en/
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