Greece 2022 (3 of 3) - Two Days in Athens

Athens. The cradle of Western civilization. The birthplace of democracy. Of all things tied to education, philosophy, and the arts. But foremost, some of the best damn food around the Mediterranean!

Any journey to the Greek islands begins or ends in Athens. In our case, 2 nights at the end were just enough. You only need more than that if planning to venture out beyond. The main attractions are around the old city. The area surrounding the Acropolis, Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma Square, etc.

A quick 30 minute cab ride from Piraeus puts you right in the middle of the city. We stayed at a small but quaint hotel just across the street from Monastiraki Square (Athens Tower by Palladian). Nice, clean, direct views of the Acropolis, free breakfast, and a nice rooftop bar to enjoy a cool libation under the moonlight. The only inconvenience was late noise, both from the plaza below, and the several other rooftop bars across the street (A for Athens and 360 Cocktail Bar).

After a quick change, a stroll through the Monastiraki streets on the way to dinner. Sidewalk cafes. Tavernas. Music. Shops open late. Animation. Ruins of Hadrian’s library. Adrianou Streeet (was I just being honored, or did Hadrian – who made Athens the cultural capital of the Roman empire – had such an impact on the city?)… I guess we’ll never know 😉

Diner was in a picturesque setting. Several tavernas at the top of a steep alley just under the Acropolis. Tables spilling onto the sidewalk. Wood burning grills. Music. Dancing. Laughter. Excellent ambiance. We picked Geros Tou Moria, but Google managed to fool me on this one. Absolute tourist trap. Food somewhere between inedible and rubber. Overcooked and reheated “souvlaki”. Latex-like octopus. Everything else came from a frozen bag (fries) or cheap can (mussels souvlaki were just bivalves in marinara sauce). Just awful. Service was not much better either, barely seeing the waiter after he took the order, or asking for the check. Complaints to the manager were met with an indifferent shrug of the shoulders. In a city like Athens, there are infinitely much better choices than this. I feel bad for the people giving this place a stellar review. They will never know what real, authentic, quality food tastes like (unless they go to a place like Liondi, for example; more on that later)

Before bed, a nightcap on our hotel’s roof bar (Hyper Astro Bar). Greek bartenders have a tendency to make strong drinks. One was enough, after long day of travel (just earlier that morning we were enjoying the Mykonos sun). The golden glow of the Acropolis did encourage us linger a bit longer…

Good night!

Athens gets VERY hot during the summer (which is why I suggest visiting late spring or early fall) so get out early. We booked a guided tour of the Acropolis, and at 8:30 we had already met our guide. Small group (a dozen or so), headsets for audio to hear the young lady tell us all about this place. I recommend such a tour; otherwise, you’d be staring at a bunch of relics that won’t have as much significance without the stories behind them.

Of course, Athena was at the center of it all, but the Acropolis was so much more than that. Theater. Religion. Grandeur. Opulence. An opportunity to show the world how great this city was. Too bad “history” (wars, natural events and … people) took its toll on these 2,500-year-old edifices. The Parthenon is being actively restored. The Erechteion, Propylaea and Temple of Nike as well (among others). The Theatre of Dionysus (at some point housing ~20,000 people) still there in some measure. The Odeon (nearing 1,900 years old) still attracts the best in music and theatre, as one of the best open-air venues in the world. Maria Callas, Pavarotti, Placido Domingo, Sinatra, Diana Ross, Elton John, Andrea Bocelli, all the way to Florence and the machine and the Foo Fighters are just a sample of names that have graced that stage. Tosca was playing next weekend.

By the end of the tour the sun was already unrelenting 94 Fahrenheit (35 Celsius). Seek cover either in the Acropolis Museum, or the shaded streets of Plaka. Souvenirs. Trinkets. Mementos. Every so often, make a quick stop into one of the tavernas for a cold drink.

Refreshed, we walked over to my arch (sure, let’s call it Hadrian’s) and peeked over the fence to the very little that’s left from the temples of Zeus, Apollo and Kronos. Beyond that, the site of the first modern Olympiad (1896): Panathenaic stadium, the only all-white-marble stadium in the world, that still holds ceremonial events today. It was built as a racehorse arena 330 years before Christ. Hosted multiple events since then and was a venue in the 2004 Olympics. Today it’s the endpoint for the annual Athens Marathon.

Adrian at Hadrian's Arch

Small parenthesis around Olympiad dates. As you noticed, 1896 was the first one in the modern era. 100 years later, Athens – naturally – wanted to host the centenary edition. It made perfect sense and would have been poetic. It came head-to head between Athens and Atlanta, and after 5 rounds of voting Atlanta prevailed. Conspiracy theorist, however, allege that Coca-Cola (among other sponsors) being based in Atlanta had a heavy hand in that outcome. " The Olympic flame will not be lit with oil, but with Coca-Cola" wrote an Athenian paper at the time. Not unfathomable. Money, power, influence will often trump romantic concepts, especially since the economic impact is measured in billions!

Poetic justice, however, the soccer semi-finals and final were hosted at Sanford stadium in the city of ATHENS, Georgia! Over 86,000 in attendance to witness Nigeria win the gold medal over Argentina under the whistle of one Pierluigi Collina (soccer geeks would know, but I’ll save you a google search – he was the best referee of all times and quite a character). Also in that last 4: Ayala, Zanetti, Sensini, Crespo, Diego Simeone (for Argentina) Dani, Nuno Gomes, Vidigal (Portugal) Tabayaro, Taribo West, Amuneke, Jay Jay Okocha, Kanu, Amokachi (Nigeria) Dida, ZeMaria, Aldair, Roberto Carlos, Flavio Conceicao, Rivaldo, Bebeto and Ronadlo (Brazil). Looking at all those names, makes the Nigerian victories over Brazil and Argentina that much more impressive! 

Obviously, I get significantly more excited by soccer glory days than Hellenic history…

Back on the busy streets of Plaka, on the way back to the hotel, a quick stop at Church of Panaghia Kapnikarea. One of the oldest in Athens (circa 1050 AD) but extremely well preserved. Interesting how it survived surrounded by all the commercialization surrounding it!

After a bit of cooling off at the hotel, time for a late lunch. In a city known for gyros and souvlaki, you’d be remiss not to try it. O Thanasis was a good recommendation. Bairaktaris is an institution, but again, only if you want a tourist trap. Efcharis is great. But most locals swear by Kostas – a no-frills hole in the wall, with barely any seating, and a very limited menu, but a constant waiting line. Being in the business for over 75 years means they’re doing something right. After a finger-licking lunch, we can attest to that!

From there, head over to Syntagma square for the changing of the guard. On the way, if souvlaki is not your thing, try a fish cone at Zisis. Fried anchovies, sardines, sandsmelt, shrimp, squid, cod or crab claws in a nice cornet. Interesting, at the least…

The guard at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier changes every hour. Funny looking uniforms. Odd movements. But the tradition and level of training resemble the ones at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Arlington. If weather permits, stroll through the National Garden and Botanical Museum, right next to the Parliament building. But if it’s 95, head back down Ermou, or Athinaidos street and have a cocktail instead at Louis Bistrot.

Refreshed, time for some more shopping, this time in the Monastiraki Flea Market. I thought this would offer some authentic Greek souvenirs; instead, a lot of “cheap crap”. And as the heat was already becoming too much, the consensus was to take a break in the air-conditioned comfort of the hotel, just across the street. We absolutely loved the convenience of the hotel location, literally in the middle of everything!

On the way to dinner, later on, a quick visit to the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral, then more shopping in Plaka. Adrianou and the adjacent streets offered a lot of quality options. And shopkeepers that go out of their way to make a sale. One has to appreciate that level of customer service!

Last dinner in Greece was memorable. Maiandros, Taverna Klimataria, and Liondi all came highly recommended. After a bit of debate, we settled on the last one. TripAdvisor ranking (#14) was the decider, and it did not disappoint. The waiter was super positive about the food. I figured he was either cocky or confident. Turned out to be the latter. Octopus was spot on. Moussaka (self-proclaimed #1 in Athens) just dreamy. Potent cocktails. Excellent wine. Left there full and tipsy! Yamas and Efharisto!

Before calling it a night, one last cocktail under the imposing sight of the Acropolis, this time at A for Athens, just next door from our hotel. Packed, even on a Wednesday night, tourists and locals alike. Good vibes, a great DJ, delicious food, awesome cocktails, What’s not to love about this life!!!

Kalinikta & Ta leme!

That’s it for Athens. An extra day would allow for a deeper exploration of the historic sites (if drawn to that) or one of those hop-on-hop-off tours that are quintessential in all big cities. For us, quick breakfast, a 30-minute cab ride, and a dreadful 11.5-hour flight back to Atlanta.

Fantastic trip. Expectations exceeded. Wonderful memories. Can’t wait to make it back!



Other links for the Greece trip: Santorini or Paros + Mykonos

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Details and further reading:



Athens Tower Hotel: https://athenstowerhotel.com/

Acropolis: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acropolis_of_Athens

Changing of the guard: https://www.greeka.com/attica/athens/sightseeing/changing-of-guards/

Greece 2022 (1 of 3) - Intro & Santorini

Instagram. TikTok. Youtube. Facebook (for us "older" folk). A constant barrage of posts with beaches and emerald waters.  Whitewashed buildings perched on arid rock.  Blue domed churches.  Amazing sunsets.  Extravangant parties.  One can only resist so much before blurting "I want to go there".  But then, what?  What if it's not just a "sigh" in passing?  What if you want to actually act on that desire? 

With roughly 6,000 islands littered across the Mediterranean, Ionian, and Aegean, the task of planning a trip to the "Greek Islands" can only be described with one word: overwhelming. Sure, only 227 are inhabited, and a good majority of those are not “tourist material", but still… in the end, there are a few dozen islands that most travel sites suggest as making the shortlist. And since a typical vacation is 1-2 weeks, that means any decent itinerary cannot include more than 3 islands (anything beyond is just unrealistic and rushed). On top of that, Santorini and Mykonos are almost a “must” for first-timers (I realize some would disgree on the latter). 

So then, what’s left?

Well, let’s explore a bit. Location is the first “filter”. The Ionian is home to some gorgeous islands (they call it the Greek Caribbean). Climate is not as dry and vegetation abounds. They are also bigger than the ones in the Aegean. Corfu and Kefalonia are the top two. Zakynthos, Lefkada, and Ithaca are close behind. All amazing according to the people I talked to and the general “wisdom” from across “the internet” 😉

The Argosaronic islands – closest to the mainland – are quick getaways for the locals and unique for not allowing cars. Hydra and Poros tend to be the main options.

At the “far end” of the Aegean, Crete is a destination on its own. It’s big enough to where it doesn’t feel cramped, and it offers enough choices for any budget. The beaches are great, people are nice, proud of their culture and heritage (after all, this is where Zeus was born!).  The island just has it all.

Further to the east – the Dodecanese – is known primarily for Rhodes (with its long and impressive history) but there are a couple of others worth a stop: Symi, Patmos, and Kalymnon (renowned for harvesting natural sponges)

On the North Aegean, Chios (birthplace of Homer and best mastic in all of Greece) and Lesvos benefit from the proximity to Turkey, in terms of ottoman influences; this part of the Aegean is not quite on the tourist circuit…

…which leaves – last, but not the very least – the Cyclades, as the most desired destination for anyone with a thirst for Greek islands. This area alone offers about 33 islands to choose from, and aside from Santorini and Mykonos (covered in more detail below) the other potential options, in some prioritized fashion, are:

Naxos – a favorite of Greeks and tourists alike, it made my shortlist, but ultimately we decided on Paros, mainly because of its size

Paros – our other stop on this trip, equally enjoyable, but at a fraction of the cost of Santorini and Mykonos; with Antiparos as an option (more tranquil; Tom Hanks has a villa there)

Ios – similar to Mykonos, catering to a younger, party-focused demographic

Milos – for jaw-dropping beaches and natural landscapes, Sifnos and Folegandros (all 3 a bit off the path, so less likely to fight the crowds)

Syros, Serifos, and Tinos (all on the north part of the Cyclades) offer quieter, more authentic, and less expensive alternatives to Mykonos

Amorgos and Irakleia for special mention, in case the ones above are not enough

Overwhelmed yet? Even after all this “filtering” there are still about 28 worth a visit. 14 of them in the Cyclades alone. From here, it becomes a matter of preference. Is it nightlife? Want to "see and be seen"? (then head to Mykonos or Ios), Beaches? (they’re all great, really, with clear, turquoise waters, but fine sand is not always a guarantee, as some are quite rocky), Culture? Gastronomy? (I didn’t have one bad meal on the islands) History, or Religion? In the end, any of them will fit the bill in some measure. It was amazing as a first impression; I’m sure it will be equally impactful the second time around.

I won’t spend more time on this. There are plenty of resources out there to help with planning (see some links at the very end); just note that July and August tend to be the busier months [read crowded and more expensive] and it’s also very hot. Everyone we spoke with – including many locals – suggested late September as the best time. May/early June is good also, but the waters are still too cold.

Let’s get on with our little adventure then!

Oh, wait!  Before we get started...  As usual, these are my vacation impressions, experiences and personal opinions.  None of the places mentioned provided any "kickbacks" or incentives.  Any recommendations happen to be based on my own experience.  Your opinions may be different.  The lens through which you read this may have a different prescription.  And that's ok.  Just enjoy and hope it helps in case you're planning a similar trip! 

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Santorini

The entry point is Athens – naturally – and the first stop beyond there dictates if a plane or a ferry is the better option. We did both on this trip, and there are benefits either way. My suggestion: fly to the furthest destination, then island-hop via ferry to make it back to Athens.

After a loooong [roughly 11 hours] flight from Atlanta, and a quick layover, I boarded the one-hour Aegean Air flight to Santorini. It barely takes off before it starts preparations to land. And the Santorini airport is so small, that it takes no time to get through. Just make sure you have the transfer to the hotel already booked. Most hotels provide that service (for a fee). In our case, we stayed at Harah’s Houses and Anna, the ever-accomodating lady who runs the place, went over and above with all kinds of support: from booking all the transfers, to car rentals, cruise reservations, dinners, etc. Just like any full-service concierge would do! I wholeheartedly recommend Anna and her place!

There are a ton of choices when it comes to lodging in Santorini. For every budget and preference. The high-end ones are quite exorbitant! Some prefer the hustle and bustle of Oia. Dreamy sunsets. Fancy restaurants. Upscale shopping. Luxe hotels. But too crowded for my taste. Dozens of busses full of cruise day-trippers exacerbate that sentiment. Others prefer the equally hectic Fira (the largest “village” on the island) with even more shops, restaurants, and thousands coming ashore from the cruise ships anchored in the gulf. This one is even more geared toward tourists…

We preferred something a little off the beaten path, but equally impressive when it came to the Caldera views. Imerovigli is a 20-min walk north of Fira, with all the charm, but more laid back. Still, plenty of bars and restaurants; just not a shopping mecca.

Hara’s Houses are perched on a very steep cliff, requiring [exactly] 107 steps to make it all the way down to the pool. That means anyone challenged by that many steps, should look elsewhere for lodging. We did our fair share of cardio at least 3 times a day! But more importantly, dragging luggage up and down those steps can be a serious workout. Thank God for the porters available to provide that back-breaking relief!

Hara's House #4

The view from our villa

The place itself was perfect. Provides all the amenities and the rooms are large and comfortable. There’s even a small kitchen, but who would want to cook when all those great restaurants are only a few steps away…

Oh, and did I mention the pool at the bottom of all those steps? Edge of the cliff. Amazing panoramic views of the Caldera and the cruise ships below. Blue water. Clear blue skies. An adult beverage or two. In this setting, the nine-to-five world you left back home evaporates in an instant!

Two days in Santorini are a minimum (but not enough). Three optimal. Four, even better.

The first day is typically spent fighting jet lag. Some light sightseeing and window shopping in Fira. Maybe some relaxing by the pool with a good bottle of local wine. For the adventurous, there’s Skaros Rock (remains of a Venetian fortress) and Mother of Lord Theoskepasti Holy Orthodox Church. It was only about 20 mins walk from the hotel, but we were dressed for dinner and preferred watching others make the steep descent, cheering them on from a distance while sipping a cold glass of wine. Who said hiking can’t be a spectator sport?

The picture, despite being a "10" does not do it justice!

As for dinner options in Imerovigli, most hotels have nice restaurants (with wonderful sunset views). Anogi was a good recommendation. Great authentic cuisine. Aktaion (in Firostefani) was another suggestion. Athenian House, a splurge, but surprisingly the $130-150 price fixe menu offered limited options. We were looking for fresh, authentic, not fancy… Ended up at Tholos, just above the Skaros Rock. Enjoyable sunset dinner and a leisurely stroll back to the hotel. Considered for a minute stopping for a night cap at Bar to Navagio, or La Maison, but ended up by the pool enjoying more local wine under the clear moonlit sky.

Day 2 was reserved for a trip around the island. There are many outfits providing cookie-cutter or customized itineraries, but I prefer a more self-paced approach. A guided tour would have been close to $100 per person. Multiplied 8 times, it justifies a couple of rented cars ($75 each). Copying their itinerary was the easy part; sticking to it, not so much!

The Akrotiri Light House (one of the oldest in Greece, circa 1892) is a 30-minute drive to the southwestern tip of the island. An easy drive, with the Caldera in full view on the right. The lighthouse itself not imposing, nor open to the public, but people gather on the nearby rocks in the evening for amazing sunset views. This morning there was no one around…

From there, the next stop was Red Beach (15 mins away) where the sea carved a small beach into the red lava rock. Quite unique! The Black Beach and White Beach (hinting at the stone façade making up the backdrop landscape) are also nearby. We “visited” them from the sea during our catamaran trip (more on that later). Another point of interest nearby is the old Akrotiri settlement (Bronze Age, 20-17th Century BC) but a visit to a nearby winery took precedence over looking at old rocks 😉. We all have our priorities, right?

There are several notable wineries on the island, and their white wines – partly due to the climate, partly to the volcanic soil – are quite unique, in a light, crisp, refreshing, somewhat dry citrusy way. Speaking of terroir, the volcanic nature imparts a certain taste to everything that grows upon it (Santorini tomatoes are world famous) and acts as a natural treatment against harmful plant diseases. No chemicals needed!

Wineries, then…

Santo is the oldest and biggest. Not necessarily best. It benefits from being “on the main road” meaning the hordes of day-trippers from the cruise ships will make this a desirable stop. Easy parking for the big tour busses. I call it a tourist trap and move on. Sure, it’s perched on top of the cliff and apparently has amazing views, but one can enjoy similar views with wine from a better winery.

There are plenty of options in that sense. Google and the local critics provide quite a bunch, but I narrowed it down to a few: Estate Argyros, Venetsanos, Domain Sigalas, Boutari, and Gavalas. Tough choices, as they’re all quite good, but we settled on Gavalas. A boutique, family-owned place, a bit off the tourist main drag, which means it wasn’t too busy (although reservations are usually encouraged). We sampled about 5-6 (mostly whites, since the reds/rose aren’t all that) and loved it. Enalia was exquisite. The Katsano and Santorini “Blue Bottle” were very good (light, crisp, refreshing, dry, yet slightly fruity, with just the right hint of acidity to match well with seafood). We kept looking for their wines at dinner… Yamas!

Next stop, the village of Pyrgos for a quick lunch of Greek meze at Kantouni. Phenomenal food. Great service. And best baklava we had in the entire trip. Up the street Cava Alta would be another good option for lunch, but it was empty at the time…

Full bellies and a bit rested we hiked up the top of the hill to Pyrgos Castle, a former fortress (1580’s) and the highest point in the island. Beautiful panoramic views from among the ruin walls. On the way back down, the narrow streets are littered with gift shops and tiny art galleries.

Less than 4 miles away, Prophet Elias Monastery would have been the next stop. Not as high up, but similar panoramic views of the island. Then another winery to cool off (Estate Argyros being closest). But due to tired legs, an extremely unforgiving sun, and a desire to take a dip in the pool, we stopped the tour short. Returned the cars. Popped into the local market for feta, tomatoes, beer, more wine, and took a breather by the pool enjoying some of the wine bought earlier at Gavalas.

Small parentheses on Greek cheese. Feta is best, of course, but discovered Mizithra/Xinomizithra, which I loved, and enjoyed one or two Kasseri saganaki during the trip as well! Yummm!!!

For dinner, we dropped off the cars and walked over to Fira for a liesurely stroll through the narrow streets. 

A bit on car rentals and transportation: definitely a preference/convenience thing (if planning a lot of side trips) but know that parking can be difficult and some of the roads (aside from the main ones) are not easy to navigate. The more popular option is to rent an RTV or scooter (much, much easier to navigate and park) but with a group of 8, that wasn’t much of an option for us. Expect to pay anywhere between 65-100+ euros per day, depending on car choice and time of booking. Less so for scooters. Alternatively, transfers can be booked with as little as 15-30 min notice and could be economical given enough “scale” (45 euros for all 8 of us from Fira to Oia).

Fira was buzzing as we were making our way to dinner. It is the “entry” point for all the cruise tourists, and it shows. There are 558 steps from the old port, where boats drop off cruise visitors, to the top of the cliff. The options are walking (I can only imagine the toll, as I was getting winded just by the 100 steps at our hotel) paying 5 euros for a donkey ride (poor beasts, but a unique experience), or the cable car (the significant length of the line there indicated it was the preferred option). Shops are busy. Gyro and souvlaki kiosks are an olfactory delight. Tavernas and restaurant hosts are luring you in for dinner. The smell of grilled fish and meat is everywhere!

Restaurant options abound in Fira. Argo, OhBoy, Aris, Nikolas, and Naoussa made the shortlist, but there are many more on that cliff. Anna secured reservations at Argo for us. Simply delightful. Had our own private balcony to enjoy great food, that Gavalas blue bottle (several actually), and another amazing sunset. Memories for a lifetime! Afterward, drink options at Tango, MoMix, or Casablanca Soul. We preferred “to go” options, as we continued to stroll through the narrow streets, then ultimately back to the hotel. Easily 15,000 steps that day, with a nightcap replay under the same moonlit sky!

 

Day 3 in Santorini was reserved for a semi-private catamaran sailing. There are multiple options, but Renieris and Spiridakos are the more reputable ones. We picked the latter and it didn’t disappoint. Enjoyed hanging out with the crew, the free-flowing beverages (Yamas!), and the grilled lunch provided, but most importantly, relished the opportunity to see the island from a different vantage point and get to cool off in the clear blue waters of the Aegean. 

Definitely worth the experience! The half-day tour included hotel pick up, departure from Oia’s old port, a dip in the Palea Kameni hot springs (naturally occurring under a still active volcano), then stops at the White Beach and Red Beach (this time from the water) ultimately ending in Vlichada (opposite end of the island) and back to the hotel.

The last evening in the island was planned for Oia. Giddy with excitement to see what everyone is raving about. But what a letdown! The narrow streets were inundated with a constant barrage of gawkers and window shoppers. In the “choice” viewing spots (it's all about the sunset) the people were queuing up already, an hour in advance. Everyone wanted to capture that Instagram moment, but no photoshop in the world could edit the crowds out of the picture. It felt overwhelming. Tiring even. After enjoyable evenings in both Imerovigli and Fira, this was a disappointment. Maybe if we came here first, it would have been different. Sure, the whitewashed building down the cliff had the same vibe, and no pictures can do it justice, but most of those are off limits unless you’re a guest or restaurant patron.

Speaking of restaurants, Ammoudi and Armeni (down in the old port) were two suggestions “at water level”. First one, another tourist trap, the second, quite good, apparently. From there, one can trek up the steep narrow steps up into Oia proper, for those Instagramable moments with backdrops of the Oia Caste, the Windmills, and of course, the Blue Domed churches. Other restaurants to consider in the area: Feredini, Candouni (no views, but food more authentic), Skala, Elinikon, and Karma. We settled for Skala – at Anna’s recommendation again – for a nice authentic dinner. The melt-in-your-mouth kid goat cooked overnight in a silky tomato sauce was nothing short of orgasmic… After dinner, Hassapiko, Catch Bar, or Pelekanos are worth a stop for a nightcap and live music.

In the end, Oia was not as memorable as I imagined it. Maybe we had much higher expectations. Maybe we were already “overdosed” on Santorini from the previous 2 nights. Or maybe too tired. Maybe the setting was not optimal (we purposely did not book another “sunset-view” dinner). Maybe the 3 cruise ships anchored in the bay sent everyone there (I imagine “day trip to Oia” is their #1 seller). Maybe that’s just how it is on any given July evening. Or maybe it really IS a tourist trap and that’s that. As I mentioned earlier, “shoulder” season would be more advisable for a trip to the Greek islands.

Next morning, time to say goodbye to this lovely island and that lovely panorama that we woke up to every day. Mimosas. A wonderful breakfast of pastries, tomatoes, and feta. Packing. Admiring the young porters running up the stairs with 25 kilos on each shoulder. And off to the new port to catch a ferry to Paros.

 

The ferry ride itself, a new experience. They clearly have this sea travel thing figured out. Booked tickets in advance (price ranges with distance, company, and seating preference). There are “regular” (slower) ferries that allow passengers out on the deck, but most are high-speed, some reaching 50 knots per hour (57 mph or 92 kmph)! A regular ferry makes the trip from Athens to Santorini in about 8 hours, while the high-speed one, in 5. And here’s why it makes sense to “ferry” between islands, instead of flying: tickets cost a third, or half (depending on class chosen) and there is no charge for luggage. Also, no need to be at the airport an hour in advance. Ferries are definitely the more practical, economical, and fun way to travel (unless the sea is acting all crazy). Pack some Dramamine just in case.

Off to Paros!

Next: Paros and Mykonos (or jump to Athens in 2 Days)

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References for some of the things mentioned above:

General info on Greek islands: https://www.visitgreece.gr/islands/

Hara’sHouses: https://www.santorini-harashouses.com/

Old Akrotiri Settlement: http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410

Santorini Wineries: https://santorinidave.com/best-santorini-wineries or https://www.thecuriouscreature.com/2019/09/29/6-best-wineries-in-santorini-greece-santorini-vineyards/ or https://unravelingwine.com/santorini-winery/

Gavalas wines: https://www.gavalaswines.gr/wines

Greek cheese: https://www.chefspencil.com/most-popular-greek-cheeses/

Pyrgos Castle: https://www.santorini-view.com/castles/castle-of-pyrgos/

Prophet Elias Monastery: https://www.santorini-view.com/attractions/prophet-elias-monastery/

Sailing: https://www.sailingsantorini.gr or https://www.santorini-yachts.com

Hot Springs: https://www.santorini-yachts.com/hot-springs-of-santorini-natures-spa/

Ferry tickets: https://www.ferryhopper.com/en/