Greece 2022 (3 of 3) - Two Days in Athens

Athens. The cradle of Western civilization. The birthplace of democracy. Of all things tied to education, philosophy, and the arts. But foremost, some of the best damn food around the Mediterranean!

Any journey to the Greek islands begins or ends in Athens. In our case, 2 nights at the end were just enough. You only need more than that if planning to venture out beyond. The main attractions are around the old city. The area surrounding the Acropolis, Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma Square, etc.

A quick 30 minute cab ride from Piraeus puts you right in the middle of the city. We stayed at a small but quaint hotel just across the street from Monastiraki Square (Athens Tower by Palladian). Nice, clean, direct views of the Acropolis, free breakfast, and a nice rooftop bar to enjoy a cool libation under the moonlight. The only inconvenience was late noise, both from the plaza below, and the several other rooftop bars across the street (A for Athens and 360 Cocktail Bar).

After a quick change, a stroll through the Monastiraki streets on the way to dinner. Sidewalk cafes. Tavernas. Music. Shops open late. Animation. Ruins of Hadrian’s library. Adrianou Streeet (was I just being honored, or did Hadrian – who made Athens the cultural capital of the Roman empire – had such an impact on the city?)… I guess we’ll never know 😉

Diner was in a picturesque setting. Several tavernas at the top of a steep alley just under the Acropolis. Tables spilling onto the sidewalk. Wood burning grills. Music. Dancing. Laughter. Excellent ambiance. We picked Geros Tou Moria, but Google managed to fool me on this one. Absolute tourist trap. Food somewhere between inedible and rubber. Overcooked and reheated “souvlaki”. Latex-like octopus. Everything else came from a frozen bag (fries) or cheap can (mussels souvlaki were just bivalves in marinara sauce). Just awful. Service was not much better either, barely seeing the waiter after he took the order, or asking for the check. Complaints to the manager were met with an indifferent shrug of the shoulders. In a city like Athens, there are infinitely much better choices than this. I feel bad for the people giving this place a stellar review. They will never know what real, authentic, quality food tastes like (unless they go to a place like Liondi, for example; more on that later)

Before bed, a nightcap on our hotel’s roof bar (Hyper Astro Bar). Greek bartenders have a tendency to make strong drinks. One was enough, after long day of travel (just earlier that morning we were enjoying the Mykonos sun). The golden glow of the Acropolis did encourage us linger a bit longer…

Good night!

Athens gets VERY hot during the summer (which is why I suggest visiting late spring or early fall) so get out early. We booked a guided tour of the Acropolis, and at 8:30 we had already met our guide. Small group (a dozen or so), headsets for audio to hear the young lady tell us all about this place. I recommend such a tour; otherwise, you’d be staring at a bunch of relics that won’t have as much significance without the stories behind them.

Of course, Athena was at the center of it all, but the Acropolis was so much more than that. Theater. Religion. Grandeur. Opulence. An opportunity to show the world how great this city was. Too bad “history” (wars, natural events and … people) took its toll on these 2,500-year-old edifices. The Parthenon is being actively restored. The Erechteion, Propylaea and Temple of Nike as well (among others). The Theatre of Dionysus (at some point housing ~20,000 people) still there in some measure. The Odeon (nearing 1,900 years old) still attracts the best in music and theatre, as one of the best open-air venues in the world. Maria Callas, Pavarotti, Placido Domingo, Sinatra, Diana Ross, Elton John, Andrea Bocelli, all the way to Florence and the machine and the Foo Fighters are just a sample of names that have graced that stage. Tosca was playing next weekend.

By the end of the tour the sun was already unrelenting 94 Fahrenheit (35 Celsius). Seek cover either in the Acropolis Museum, or the shaded streets of Plaka. Souvenirs. Trinkets. Mementos. Every so often, make a quick stop into one of the tavernas for a cold drink.

Refreshed, we walked over to my arch (sure, let’s call it Hadrian’s) and peeked over the fence to the very little that’s left from the temples of Zeus, Apollo and Kronos. Beyond that, the site of the first modern Olympiad (1896): Panathenaic stadium, the only all-white-marble stadium in the world, that still holds ceremonial events today. It was built as a racehorse arena 330 years before Christ. Hosted multiple events since then and was a venue in the 2004 Olympics. Today it’s the endpoint for the annual Athens Marathon.

Adrian at Hadrian's Arch

Small parenthesis around Olympiad dates. As you noticed, 1896 was the first one in the modern era. 100 years later, Athens – naturally – wanted to host the centenary edition. It made perfect sense and would have been poetic. It came head-to head between Athens and Atlanta, and after 5 rounds of voting Atlanta prevailed. Conspiracy theorist, however, allege that Coca-Cola (among other sponsors) being based in Atlanta had a heavy hand in that outcome. " The Olympic flame will not be lit with oil, but with Coca-Cola" wrote an Athenian paper at the time. Not unfathomable. Money, power, influence will often trump romantic concepts, especially since the economic impact is measured in billions!

Poetic justice, however, the soccer semi-finals and final were hosted at Sanford stadium in the city of ATHENS, Georgia! Over 86,000 in attendance to witness Nigeria win the gold medal over Argentina under the whistle of one Pierluigi Collina (soccer geeks would know, but I’ll save you a google search – he was the best referee of all times and quite a character). Also in that last 4: Ayala, Zanetti, Sensini, Crespo, Diego Simeone (for Argentina) Dani, Nuno Gomes, Vidigal (Portugal) Tabayaro, Taribo West, Amuneke, Jay Jay Okocha, Kanu, Amokachi (Nigeria) Dida, ZeMaria, Aldair, Roberto Carlos, Flavio Conceicao, Rivaldo, Bebeto and Ronadlo (Brazil). Looking at all those names, makes the Nigerian victories over Brazil and Argentina that much more impressive! 

Obviously, I get significantly more excited by soccer glory days than Hellenic history…

Back on the busy streets of Plaka, on the way back to the hotel, a quick stop at Church of Panaghia Kapnikarea. One of the oldest in Athens (circa 1050 AD) but extremely well preserved. Interesting how it survived surrounded by all the commercialization surrounding it!

After a bit of cooling off at the hotel, time for a late lunch. In a city known for gyros and souvlaki, you’d be remiss not to try it. O Thanasis was a good recommendation. Bairaktaris is an institution, but again, only if you want a tourist trap. Efcharis is great. But most locals swear by Kostas – a no-frills hole in the wall, with barely any seating, and a very limited menu, but a constant waiting line. Being in the business for over 75 years means they’re doing something right. After a finger-licking lunch, we can attest to that!

From there, head over to Syntagma square for the changing of the guard. On the way, if souvlaki is not your thing, try a fish cone at Zisis. Fried anchovies, sardines, sandsmelt, shrimp, squid, cod or crab claws in a nice cornet. Interesting, at the least…

The guard at the Monument to the Unknown Soldier changes every hour. Funny looking uniforms. Odd movements. But the tradition and level of training resemble the ones at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Arlington. If weather permits, stroll through the National Garden and Botanical Museum, right next to the Parliament building. But if it’s 95, head back down Ermou, or Athinaidos street and have a cocktail instead at Louis Bistrot.

Refreshed, time for some more shopping, this time in the Monastiraki Flea Market. I thought this would offer some authentic Greek souvenirs; instead, a lot of “cheap crap”. And as the heat was already becoming too much, the consensus was to take a break in the air-conditioned comfort of the hotel, just across the street. We absolutely loved the convenience of the hotel location, literally in the middle of everything!

On the way to dinner, later on, a quick visit to the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral, then more shopping in Plaka. Adrianou and the adjacent streets offered a lot of quality options. And shopkeepers that go out of their way to make a sale. One has to appreciate that level of customer service!

Last dinner in Greece was memorable. Maiandros, Taverna Klimataria, and Liondi all came highly recommended. After a bit of debate, we settled on the last one. TripAdvisor ranking (#14) was the decider, and it did not disappoint. The waiter was super positive about the food. I figured he was either cocky or confident. Turned out to be the latter. Octopus was spot on. Moussaka (self-proclaimed #1 in Athens) just dreamy. Potent cocktails. Excellent wine. Left there full and tipsy! Yamas and Efharisto!

Before calling it a night, one last cocktail under the imposing sight of the Acropolis, this time at A for Athens, just next door from our hotel. Packed, even on a Wednesday night, tourists and locals alike. Good vibes, a great DJ, delicious food, awesome cocktails, What’s not to love about this life!!!

Kalinikta & Ta leme!

That’s it for Athens. An extra day would allow for a deeper exploration of the historic sites (if drawn to that) or one of those hop-on-hop-off tours that are quintessential in all big cities. For us, quick breakfast, a 30-minute cab ride, and a dreadful 11.5-hour flight back to Atlanta.

Fantastic trip. Expectations exceeded. Wonderful memories. Can’t wait to make it back!



Other links for the Greece trip: Santorini or Paros + Mykonos

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Details and further reading:



Athens Tower Hotel: https://athenstowerhotel.com/

Acropolis: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acropolis_of_Athens

Changing of the guard: https://www.greeka.com/attica/athens/sightseeing/changing-of-guards/

Greece 2022 (2 of 3) - Paros and Mykonos

(...continued from Santorini)

Paros

An hour and a half after leaving Santorini on a fast ferry (including quick stops in Ios and Naxos) we were back on land. We picked up our rentals (used a local outfit, just outside the port) and 10 minutes later were unpacking again. This time we rented a house, not quite on the beach, but within walking distance. Too bad we didn’t spend that much time there, other than sleeping. It had amazing, panoramic views, exquisite landscaping, a nice jacuzzi, and a shared pool. It also had a nosy couple from Belgium (who lived there full time) that could have put a damper on our vacation, had we let them.

Ios

Apollo's Temple in Naxos

Paros itself is quaint, welcoming, and more casual. Not as big as Naxos (that would have been the other choice in route to Mykonos). Not as touristy either. But with plenty to offer. And definitely requires a car in order to explore properly.

That same evening, a quick drive back to Parikia, struggle to find parking (as you’d imagine), and a nice stroll through the old town and the seaside promenade lined with restaurants and tavernas. Had reservations at Mira, for another sunset dinner, this time with the water lapping gently against the shore 10 yards away. Another memorable meal, attentive wait staff, just perfect!  At the end, the owner stopped by with shots of ouzo and homemade raki. Yamas!!

 

The after-dinner stroll to the tiny port at end of the promenade revealed that any of the other restaurants and tavernas would have been just as good. Some even had live music. One can definitely get used to this lifestyle!

Next morning, time to enjoy some beach time. There are many in Paros, but it was a windy day, and we were advised to seek some of the more sheltered ones. Parasporos was the closest, but directly on the windy side. We settled on Faragas, 20 minutes south, but not before a quick stop at a local bakery for breakfast. Cheese pies, Greek bagels (koulori), kefir, lots of carbs. Not exactly healthy choices, but so, so delicious!

The beach itself was small. Parking very limited. Full bar and limited number of umbrellas. Vacation planning should include chair/umbrella reservations in advance. 50 euros for first row. Slightly cheaper beyond that. But all booked up for the day! And it did fill up quickly. We still enjoyed some shade from the nearby sea pines, a quick dip in the clear blue waters, and a nice, stiff drink (or three) at the bar.

15 minutes up the coast, another quick stop, this time at Golden Beach. This one, much wider, windier, and not as crowded (perhaps everyone was looking for that sheltered beach today, as the wind was picking up speed)

 

From the beach to the mountains, as the next stop was at Lefkes, a traditional village another 15 minutes away, inland. OK, not quite “mountain”. Let’s call them hills. We stopped for lunch at Aranto, a lovely taverna perched on top of a hill that provided a lovely view of the village below, and beyond, all the way out to sea. Meze again. Tzatziki. Saganaki. Lamb. Greek fries. Zucchini balls. Oh, my!

I’m aware that I’m talking about food a lot on this post, but that’s just it. It’s part of the experience in the islands. There are no “fast foods” here. Everything slows down. People are encouraged to take a long lunch. An even longer dinner. Enjoy the peace of it all. Take it all in. Savor the local goodies. A good wine. And of course, their amazing deserts…

Back to the house to clean up, then off to Nousa for dinner and shopping. If Parikia is more casual, and considered a locals’ hangout, Nousa is more upscale. More touristy. But charming, nonetheless. Set against a secluded gulf, on the north side of the island, it’s where everyone goes for nightlife. Restaurants and tavernas abound. Shops are open late. And both coexist somewhat symbiotically (not sure about trying to enjoy dinner while people parading up and down the same narrow alley bump into the table, but it definitely seems to work)

We dined smack dab in the middle of the small port, with fishing boats lazily bobbling, moored only a few feet away. The place was called Sigi Ikhtios (‘Absolute Silence’) or “Shhhh” (as in silence of the fish). The waiter, a real character, great salesman, and by far the best we had in this trip (or ever, for that matter). Great meze again. Fried calamari are usually chewy. These were melt-in-your mouth. Octopus again, for the umpteenth time. Perfection. Fresh grilled fish, with only lemon and olive oil on top. Sublime! Fantastic local wine to wash it all down. Another memorable evening indeed!

Next morning, packing again. With the realization that we overpacked. Trips like this make one rethink the entire wardrobe approach. “Smart casual” is accepted even in the “fancier” places. I have not put on ONE pair of long pants (although I packed 4). Shorts are entirely acceptable (not the swimming kind, of course). With a nice collar shirt. Linen is omnipresent. Ladies are all about colorful summer dresses. But evenings can get cool and windy, so keep that in mind, for a light sweater.

All packed, back in the old town for a late brunch, more shopping, and a visit to a 4th century byzantine monastery (Panagia Ekatontapiliani) before embarking on the ferry to Mykonos. This one happened to be a slower one, where we were allowed up on the [very windy] deck.

Mykonos

Mykonos is the Ibiza of Greece. It’s THE party island, where everyone goes to see and be seen. It’s also [for the most part] an overpriced tourist trap. Sure, the old town is picturesque, but those narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants can be found on any other island in the Cyclades. What changes is the entire ambiance after sunset, when all the bars and clubs come to life and keep the music bouncing until sunrise. And as you’d imagine, they range from normal-priced (e.g. Scandinavian) to a month’s wages and beyond (Veranda, Scarpa, or Queen). But that’s not my scene any longer [my “clubbing” days are long gone] so do your own poking around. Our visit was atypical, as we met up with family and friends, roughly 30 in total. Near impossible to do any decent planning with a group that size.

The setting of our vacation home was nice. We had almost an entire property booked. Gated and private. Three houses. About 15 bedrooms. Swimming pool. But located halfway between the airport and the beach. Which meant cars were a necessity. Quite a few cars, obviously…

If the last few days were about vacationing, sightseeing, and enjoying the islands, this was to be a party epilogue. Heavy drinking and celebrating. My sister’s unofficial 50th! A dress rehearsal, if you want to call it that 😉. The first grocery store run was about $850. Only a small portion of that accounted for food! Yamas!

Naturally, the first night led to heavy drinking. Party Romanian style. Ran out of bubbly in no time. Switched to (or continued with) scotch, vodka, tequila, white wine, rosé, Mythos beer, even home-made cognac. You get the idea: pretty much the opposite of an AA meeting…

Next morning called for mimosas. Agrari Beach was the setting (considered a “quiet/relaxing” beach, since there’s no DJ; used more to relax and recharge after a night of heavy partying). A full bar, nice restaurant, attentive staff and beach chairs at an affordable $30. By comparison, at some of the “it” beaches in the area (Pacha, SantAnna, Paradise, or Cavo Paradiso) expect to drop a few hundred dollars just for the “privilege” to rub shoulders with the elite ($250 and up for sunbeds and $10-20k for tables, once the sun sets and the DJs take to the stage)

We had our own fun though. Eventually lost count of the number of prosecco bottles. Surely some of us overdosed on vitamin D from all that orange juice 😉. But it was a fun day. If we had all that consumption in one of the pretentious beach clubs, the damage would have been worse than Biden’s “contribution” to the US economy over the last 2 years… But I digress…

In Santorini we had Anna to guide us and provide local recommendations. In Paros, we were a bit more self-sufficient, but still relied on tourists for guidance. In Mykonos, Marillia, the lady managing the property was kind enough to provide some suggestions, even make reservations. So, dinner – for the entire group – was at Vardaris, a local taverna in the quaint village of Ano Mera, outside of the tourist zone. Traditional, unpretentious food, and home-made wine. So authentic (with a couple of locals seated at the next table) that it could’ve been in any random village in the Greek islands. Outside, kids were playing soccer under the streetlamps. On the other end of the square, a trio was entertaining the crowd with traditional Greek music. It all felt very family-friendly and natural. Somehow disconnected from our typical “on the run” lives. They sure do know how to take a breather…

Couldn't get the whole table without a little 'fishbowl' effect

After dinner, back in Chora for some late-night strolling and a drink or two at Scandinavian Bar. The area is so alive at night. Much more so than during the day (we were back the next day for some shopping, and it was sooo quiet). Music. Fragrant aromas of grilled souvlakis. Smoke. Both food and tobacco generated. Some weed as well. Smoking still prevalent in Greece. It was all quite an experience and excellent people-watching!

Next day, we had a nice sunset cruise planned out. Private charter. Food, drinks, snorkeling, the whole bit. We were looking forward to it. Unfortunately, 30+ mile-an-hour winds prevented the captain from leaving the harbor. Drats! Instead, we had to scramble for another dinner reservation. Marillia came through again, with a couple of tables at Roca, just off the Old Port. Nice dinner to wrap up the Greek islands trip, complete with sunset ambiance and birthday cake! Yamas, Cheers, and La Multi Ani!

There is, obviously, plenty to do in Mykonos. As much as it’s a “party island” it has a lot of other things to offer. The north side of the island is worth exploring. A friend recommended Kiki’s Tavern, but we never made it that far. Maybe next time. The canceled cruise did not allow us to explore the island from the sea. And speaking of exploring, for those into history, consider a trip to Delos (30-40 mins by boat) one of the most important mythological, historical and archaeological sites in Greece.

If Mykonos gets to be too much, there’s the option of a day trip to Tinos (one of the up-and-coming vacation destinations, since it’s close to Mykonos, but caters to a different crowd, it’s more autentic, and considerably cheaper). If catching an early morning ferry, you’ll have a full day to visit some of the highlights: the Church of the Virgin Mary, Pyrgos, Panormos, Rohari Beach, Kardiani, Xomburgo, Passakrotiri and grab dinner at Mikro Karavi, or To Koutouki tis Elenis before catching a late return ferry back.

As I’m writing this, I’m quite convinced that we’ll be back to explore some of these unchecked things on the list. Some of the islands that we had to skip. For now, time to pack up again, and jump on yet another ferry, this time back to the mainland. Three hours later, over choppy seas and a quick stop in Siros we were in Piraeus. Another 30 mins in a cab and we were staring out the window of our Athens Tower Palladian hotel at the imposing monuments atop the Acropolis.

Next: Two Days in Athens (or go back to Santorini)

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Additional references from above:

Paros Villa Rental: https://www.booking.com/hotel/gr/seaside-home-with-pool-hot-tub-vineyard-and-view.html

Paros Car Rental: https://paros-car-rentals.gr/

Paros Monastery: https://www.greeka.com/cyclades/paros/sightseeing/paros-panagia-ekatontapiliani/

El Mar: https://www.elmarmykonos.com/about-our-villas/

Mykono$$$: https://greekcitytimes.com/2022/06/14/the-crazy-prices-of-mykonos/

Delos: https://archaeology-travel.com/greece/visiting-delos-island/