Patagonia & Beyond (2 of 9) - Buenos Aires

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Buenos Aires is likely the most un-South American city I’ve visited. Boheme, yet humble, with its fair share of run-down barrios. Grandiose and cozy at the same time. A touch of Paris, with a dash of Madrid, and a sprinkle of German influence (of course) but with a Latin flare. Unique. Very active, energetic, positive, despite the recent challenges, both on the political and economic front. A new president (quite radical, most said) just elected a month earlier provides the hope for change and the opportunity to get out and protest (depending on which side of the fence you sit). But let’s not go there. Just hope that they will soon find a way out of this economic impasse!

We experienced the city back in 2014, during the World Cup. Tango lessons. Milongas. Recoleta. San Telmo. Palermo. Teatro Colon… This time we tried to hit different spots. Caminito is a tourist trap. But a colorful tourist trap, and a significant part of BA’s identity. Home to waves of immigrants over time. So, when in “Rome” … just mind the pickpockets and petty thieves. Purses and backpacks in front. And don’t venture out into the side streets. La Bombonera, Boca Juniors’ famed stadium, is only blocks away. Maradona, Riquelme, Martín Palermo, etc. called it home. Worth a visit, but maybe next time. Taxi in and out, grab some pics, maybe a couple overpriced souvenirs, and move on. 

So much grilled meat... and bad 'statues' of Maradona and Messi...

Go north and grab lunch at Mercado San Telmo. Hierro Parilla or La Choripaneria (can’t pass through BA without indulging in a choripan; their [much more delicious] answer to the hod dog). From there, continue north to Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada (the presidential palace, where Eva Perón sang from the famed balcony [or so Hollywood says]). In the weekends, take Defensa, and enjoy the street market. Otherwise, head to Puerto Madero and Puente de la Mujer, for a view of the more modern Buenos Aires.

In Plaza de Mayo, the Metropolitan Cathedral is a must. On this occasion, the streets were full of demonstrators against the new regime’s policies. Peaceful, but loud! We skirted, and headed on to Calle Florida, a pedestrian mall catering mostly to tourists. “Cambio, cambio” every 50 feet is the invitation to change dollars or euros for pesos. A very lucrative exchange rate but be aware of scams. The safer option is Western Union (consult any BA forum on the topic), but they are usually unreliable, long lines, limited funds, etc. The “tourist dollar” (exchange rate if using a credit card) is pretty close to the “blue dollar” rate, and very convenient, as you don’t need to worry about exchanging and/or carrying wads of cash. On that note, we did exchange some dollars here and there, but for the most part, used credit cards, acceptable everywhere, even in some of the more remote spots in Patagonia. We were prepared with extra cash but ended up bringing most of it back home. When I first started planning this trip, the tourist dollar rate was about 6-700 pesos. In December, it almost doubled! Now, it seems to be (somewhat) stabilizing, and the new leadership has that parity adjustment at the top of their agenda.  That said, for the time being, it’s still enormously economical to travel to Argentina!

On our last visit, we took private tango lessons and were invited to a milonga, with mostly locals, and a very good live band. Tremendous experience. This time around, we had to do the touristy thing and see a tango show. El Querandi made the short list (other close contenders were El Viejo Almacen, La Ventana, Tango Porteño, or – if you want to splurge – Tango Rojo). Opt for the show only, as dinner in these places is below par. The show was good. Not great, but good, with a gradual journey through the history of tango. The two elderly singers didn’t do much for me (perhaps if my Spanish was better, it would have) but the dancers were enjoyable to watch.

For dinner, steak is a must in BA. So many good options. Hierro Parilla was a great lunch spot (more casual). Don Julio is an institution.  Would have tried it, if we had another day. Something for next time, definitely. On our last trip, Aramburu (top notch molecular gastronomy) was a gem. It’s still around and made the top 50 list in South America recently. Also enjoyed “best steak ever” at “Steaks by Louis” – a parrilla in the guy’s home. Not sure this one is still around. But in my research, I stumbled upon Fogón Asado (top of the Tripadvisor list). A unique approach to showcasing grilled meats (and veggies) perfectly executed by an entire crew of parrilleros. Think hibachi, but with a massive, sophisticated “grill on steroids” in the middle. Excellent concept, and kudos to everyone involved for a very engaging execution! Loved it. Make sure you book in advance. I suggest the Gorriti location. Newer, larger, more modern.

After dinner, a couple great suggestions for cocktails: Tres Monos (#11 in the world last year - https://www.theworlds50best.com/bars/list/1-50).  For a truly “bespoke” experience, tell the bartender what you like, what you don’t like, then let them impress you. He surely did! Also, a couple blocks away, Backroom Bar (at the suggestion of the Fogón staff). People in the business always know best. 

Next day, a bit more strolling through Palermo and Recoleta (including the famed cemetery) capped the quick stop in BA. It served as mostly a stepping point for the journey south, to Patagonia. It seemed busier than 9 years ago (this was summer for them; last time was winter, so that may have played a part). It also seemed a bit run down (I guess when the economy is in the tank, there is no money to upkeep, let alone modernize). Yet, still, it’s always worth a visit. 

Feliz Navidad!

The city has so much to offer! But off to El Calafate for now. Via the local airport (AEP) which is literally “in the city” and offers excellent panoramic views on approach. Such a big plus, as the International one (EZE) is a good hour away!

Link to next leg of the trip (Torres del Paine, Patagonia): https://disdatdudder.blogspot.com/2024/02/patagonia-beyond-3-of-9-torres-del-paine.html

Also, link to the Buenos Aires trip we toook back in 2014, during the World Cup: https://disdatdudder.blogspot.com/2014/08/three-days-in-buenos-aires.html

Quick jumps all the other legs of this trip:

• Two days in Iguazu Falls
• Three days in Torres del Paine
• Three days in El Calafate/Perito Moreno
• Two days in El Chalten
• Two days in Bariloche
• Two days in Mendoza
• Two days in Santiago, Chile
• A half-day layover in Bogota