Dis, Dat & Dee Udder ;-): Utah & Arizona RV Trip

Up at the crack at down. Hearty breakfast for the long day ahead. Layers. Hats. Gloves. Neck gaiters. Backpacks full of supplies. First aid. Snacks. Water. Camera. Phones. Ready! Barely above freezing as we’re waiting for the shuttle. But forecast looks promising. At least no snowstorm!!!

We jumped off at the Grotto stop (most everybody else did the same) and picked up the West Rim / Angels Landing Trailhead, just across the river. The first portion is relatively easy, but after about ¾ of a mile, a continuous ascent over a nice, paved walkway gains roughly 800 ft in elevation, before it tapers off across the section known as Refrigerator Canyon (named thusly for obvious reason). Looking over the shoulder, the panoramic vista right before that canyon is breathtaking! Once out of the canyon, a steep set of 21 switchbacks (Walter’s Wiggles) gains another quick 250 ft in altitude. It makes for intense cardio when it’s dry, but given the current conditions – a heavy sheet of ice covering the trail – made it VERY difficult to negotiate without the proper gear. People that knew better had chains over their hiking boots. So, obviously, there goes tip #3: get chains if you plan to hike in wintry conditions.

Refrigerator Canyon:

Walter's Wiggles:

Chains Section and Scout Overlook:

By the time we got to the chains section (yes, the last portion of the climb is very steep, not for the faint of heart, and requires holding on to chains, for added security) we had climbed over 1,200 ft. Initial attempts to continue along the Hogsback (or Spine) made us quickly realize that without chains it would be a dangerous affair. So, after the first set of chains, we regrettably “threw in the towel”. Another day, perhaps… Be aware that as of 2022 the park has instituted a reservations-only policy for the chains section (can still go all the way up to Scout Lookout without a permit) to minimize the number of people on an otherwise dangerous portion of the trail. About 14 people met their demise up there since 2,000 so it is a serious concern, especially for people that are not properly equipped, afraid of heights, or simply not paying attention…

Nonetheless, the views from the Scout Lookout are still amazing, and of course, pictures will never do it justice. The way back down was quicker (always is!) especially as we literally had to slide down our buts across Walter’s Wiggles. By the time we hit the sun-kissed side of the canyon, layers were coming off and sunscreen was coming on.

After a quick pit stop and sandwiches, back on the shuttle for the end of the route: the Temple of Sinawawa, the trailhead for the Narrows. It’s only a mile to the point where gear is required and we saw plenty of people suited up for the trek. There was some regret that we didn’t rent the equipment but trying to go all the way to the Wall Street (a 6-mile round trip) would have been treacherous and put us at risk of missing out on the last shuttle back (meaning another 2-mile hike to the Lodge). Plus, we would have had to haul all that gear with us earlier in the day, which was quite voluminous. Well… something to look forward to on the next trip, perhaps

Back at the Grotto, we picked up Kayenta trail in the opposite direction from Angel’s Landing, heading out to the Emerald Pools and eventually ending up at the Zion Lodge after another 2+ mile hike. Plenty of wildlife along the way (deer mostly but saw a fox as well) and the horseshoe-shaped waterfall above the Emerald Pools can provide some cooling during summer months, as the trail goes right under its mist.

Emerald Pools:

By the time we sat down on the Lodge patio for a quick snack and a cold brew, we had already logged over 10 miles of walking. Even with good-quality hiking boots (Laura loves her new Hoka Speedgoats), the feet were “screaming” for a rest. Tip #4: use KT tape to cover “friction” areas on your feet, to avoid blisters. They stay on much better than regular band-aids.

Back at the RV, a quick shower, dinner, and fireside chat, brews, and s’mores with our neighbors: a couple of professors from UGA (where my daughter goes to school; small world, huh) with their 3 very inquisitive kids. A nice time was had by all, and we dropped dead instantly after. Tip #5: find a way to separate clothes worn while seating by the fire (store them outside if possible) as that smell of smoke permeates and never seems to go away.

For reference, here's what Walter's Wiggles and the chains section of Angel's Landing look like in the summer, which explains why it was sooooo difficult to slippery to go through without chains (photo creds to Larry Geddis and Mountain Walrus respectively):